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- ふじよし あくや
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3 48 3 (29.9) * ** *** (1975) (28) NOWT-PARIVer5.3 * ** *** Fax hirayama@pari.go.jp
4 REPORT OF THE PORT AND AIRPORT RESEARCH INSTITUTE Vol.48, No.3 (Sep.29) Evaluation of Design Wave Condition for Seawall on Coral Reef Calculated in Boussinesq-type Wave Transformation Model Katsuya HIRAYAMA* Kazuto HARUO** Ichiro MIYAZATO*** Synopsis Wave overtopping rate for a designed seawall can be evaluated in the diagrams proposed by Goda (1975) using the equivalent offshore wave height and the water depth in front of the seawall. Moreover, Miyakuni et al. (28) suggested that the wave set-up and the surf-beat should be added to the design water depth for the seawall on a coral reef flat. The evaluation of such a design condition on the surf, however, is much difficult because the wave transformation is complicated in the target area because of wave breaking and run-up on spatial topography in the reef area. In this study, the evaluation of the surf condition is carried out by using the Boussinesq-type wave transformation model developed by Hirayama and Hiraishi (25), which can reproduce wave dissipating, wave set-up and surf-beat generated in wave breaking zone on a complicated coral reef bathymetry. Thus, the design wave height can be directly calculated and the design water level can be evaluated with the calculated wave set-up and surf-beat height. Additionally, the wave overtopping rate on the designed seawall is calculated by using Goda s diagram in order to verify the applicability of this procedure for seawall design in an actual coral reef. Key Words: Boussinesq model, coral reef, overtopping rate, seawall design, wave set-up, surf-beat * Head, Wave Group, Coastal and Ocean Eng. Research Division, Marine Environment and Eng. Dept. ** Researcher, Wave Group, Coastal and Ocean Eng.Research Division, Marine Environment and Eng. Dept. *** Visiting Engineer, Wave Group, Coastal and Ocean Eng. Research Division, Marine Environment and Eng. Dept Nagase, Yokosuka, Kanagawa Japan Phone Fax hirayama@pari.go.jp
5
6 ,25 NOWT-PARIVer CADMAS-SURF NOWT-PARIVer NOWT-PARIVer5.3 Great Barrier Reef Marine Park,
7 5m h d h η bar H L1/3 h d =h+η bar +ah L1/3 H L1/3 H L1/3 H L1/3_S h d =h+η bar +ah L1/3_S a h d hη bar αh L1/3 αh L1/3 H L1/3 h d η bar h a=.5 a=.7 a=.5.7 a a H L1/3_I h d =h+η bar +a*bh L1/3_I H L1/3_S = bh L1/3_I 2b=2-28 -
8 b=2 28 h d = h+η bar +.7H L1/3_S = h+η bar +1.4H L1/3_I a=.7b=2 h d = h+η bar +.5H L1/3_S = h+η bar +1.H L1/3_I a=.5b=2 H K d K r H 28 K s 1974 H 1/ K sb 26 H =H 1/3 / K sb H 1/3 H hd tanθ H h/h 4. Yes No H =K d K r H Ks 1974 Ksb 1975 H H 1/3 H 2 H1/3/Ks H1/3/Ksb H Yes H H hd tanθ H H1/3/Ks No H 1/3 H H =H 1/3 / K s H Yes H No
9 h d tanθ H h/h 4 K s h/h 4 H 1/3 /H H 1/3 H H H H H 28 H H 1/3 h d tanθ H K s H 1/3 K s H H H H % (1975 H 1/3x η barx - 3 -
10 H L1/ ζ H L1/3 4.4* ζ NOWT-PARIVer5.3 NOWT-PARIVer5.325 (a) Line1; Y=+8m (b)line2; Y=+55m (c)line3; Y=+6m (d)line4; Y=-5m
11 29 3s3s H 1/3 H L1/3 η bar 28 3s 3s H 1/3 H L1/3=H L1/3_I η bar h d= h+η bar + H L1/3*a H = H 1/3 / K s h d 2.5km 2.km 25m 1km NOWPHAS
12 NOWPHAS 2,5m NOWPHAS NOWPHAS WSW NNW N W NNWWSW6 D.L. H.H.W.L H.W.L L.W.L. ±. ±
13 NOWPHAS NOWPHAS5 NNWNOWPHAS 5 Smax = 5 2 dx=dy=5.m H.H.W.L.=D.L.+3.2m NOWPHAS NOWPHAS H 1/3 [m] T 1/3 [s] Smax [deg.] N NNW NW WNW W WSW
![S(f) [m 2 sec] 18 NNW 16 14 12 1 8 6 4 2..1.2 Frequency(Hz) 29 NNW H 1/3 [m ] T 1/3 [s] Sm ax [deg.] N 8.93 13.2 19 5 NNW 8.](/docs-images/99/140277898/images/14-0.jpg "24 13.1 13 335 NW 9.48 14.1 14 317 W NW 1.11 14.9 1 31 W 9.48 14.5 11 281 W SW 8.23 14.")
14 S(f) [m 2 sec] 18 NNW Frequency(Hz) 29 NNW H 1/3 [m ] T 1/3 [s] Sm ax [deg.] N NNW NW W NW W W SW NE N s Ns512 2 NNW NNW
15 [s] L /2 [m] [m] [m] N /1 NNW /1 NW /1 WNW /2 W /1 WSW /1 [m ] I [m ] J [m ] I J N /1.1 NNW /1.1 NW /1.1 W NW /2.5 W /1.1 W SW /1.1 [m] IMAX JMAX IS I I1 IE JS J J1 JE N ,232,688 NNW ,126,476 NW ,196 WNW ,59,896 W ,224,916 WSW ,193,976 1m λ αβdh
![λ α β d[m] V[m^3] 5.5 21 2.2 2.71 2 32.5 21 2.2 2.32 12.5 2.5 21 2.2 2. 8 16.5 21 2.2 1.85 6.3 12.5.5 21 2.2 1.71 5 5.](/docs-images/99/140277898/images/16-0.jpg "5 21 2.2 1.26 2 5.575 21 2.2 2.79 21.739 4.575 21 2.2 2.89 17.391 α β 12 1.7 21 2.2-37 -")
16 λ α β d[m] V[m^3] α β
17 NOWT-PARI Ver.5.3 Δt 1/4 WNWW Δt 1/8 24P4P271m NNW NNW NNW
18 (a) P33 (b) P44 (c) P16 NNW NNW P33P44P16 P33P44P16 3s H 1/3 η bar H L1/3 WNW
19 H S1/3(m) HL1/3(m) η bar(m) (a) N NNW NW WNW 1.2 W WSW (b) N NNW.2 NW WNW.1 W WSW (c) N NNW NW WNW W WSW (d) P4P27 ±5% 2 b b=2 2 b=2-4 -
20 hd(m) 4.5 h d h+η bar +.5*H L1/ N NNW 2.5 NW WNW W WSW 2. H '(m) 1..9 h d h+η bar +.5*H L1/ N NNW NW WNW W WSW (a) a=.5 (a) a=.5 hd(m) 4.5 h d h+η bar +.7*H L1/ N NNW 2.5 NW WNW W WSW 2. H '(m) 1..9 h d h+η bar +.7*H L1/ N NNW NW WNW W WSW (b) a=.7 (b) a=.7 b=2 a=.5.72 a a=.5.7 P9P15 h (1)(3) aa=.5.7 a= a NOWT-PARI Ver5.3 3s 3s H L1/3_I H L1/3_S a=.5 a=.7 7:3-41 -
21 β 1= β 1> N N ηbar[m], HL1/3 [m] b Point T L1/3[s] ηbar[m] HL1/3[m] Sqrt(B1) TL1/3[s] ηbar[m], HL1/3 [m] b Point TL1/3[s] ηbar[m] HL1/3[m] Sqrt(B1) TL1/3[s] η bar[m], HL1/3 [m] b NNW TL1/3[s] ηbar[m] HL1/3[m] Sqrt(B1) TL1/3[s] η bar[m], HL1/3 [m] b NNW TL1/3[s] ηbar[m] HL1/3[m] Sqrt(B1) TL1/3[s] Point Point NW NW η bar[m], HL1/3 [m] b TL1/3[s] ηbar[m] HL1/3[m] Sqrt(B1) TL1/3[s] η bar[m], HL1/3 [m] b TL1/3[s] ηbar[m] HL1/3[m] Sqrt(B1) TL1/3[s] Point Point η bar[m], HL1/3 [m] b WNW TL1/3[s] ηbar[m] HL1/3[m] Sqrt(B1) TL1/3[s] η bar[m], HL1/3 [m] b WNW TL1/3[s] ηbar[m] HL1/3[m] Sqrt(B1) TL1/3[s] Point Point η bar[m], HL1/3 [m] b W TL1/3[s] ηbar[m] HL1/3[m] Sqrt(B1) TL1/3[s] η bar[m], HL1/3 [m] b W TL1/3[s] ηbar[m] HL1/3[m] Sqrt(B1) TL1/3[s] Point Point η bar[m], HL1/3 [m] b WSW TL1/3[s] ηbar[m] HL1/3[m] Sqrt(B1) TL1/3[s] ηbar[m], HL1/3 [m] b WSW TL1/3[s] ηbar[m] HL1/3[m] Sqrt(B1) TL1/3[s] Point Point
22 1 β1 = η 1 N 3 N rms i= 1 ( ηi η ) β 1=.5 β 1 a=.5a=.7 NNW η bar (m) ah L1/3 (m) h d (m) (a) (a=.7) (a=.5) (a=.7) (a=.5) (b) (a=.7) (a=.5) (c) (a=.7) (a=.5) (a=.7) (a=.5) (a=.7) (a=.5) H' (m) (m) (d) NNW
23 a 2 35cma 2cm a 6cm H 1/3_x(m) H 1/3_x (m) H 1/3_x (m) H 1/3_x (m) Line1 84 P29 H1/3 H1/3 H1/3 P4 1. P Line3 984m P31 (a) H1/3 H1/3 H1/ (b) Line5 1584m P33 Line7 2184m P35 P46 P1 H1/3 H1/3 H1/3 P44 (c) P16 H1/3 H1/3 H1/ m m m m (d) NNW P
24 q(m 3 /m/s) 1.E+ 1.E 3 1.E 6 1.E 9 1.E 12 1.E 15 1.E 18 1.E 21 1.E 24 1.E 27 1.E a=.5 q=21 4 D.L.+5.m (a) a=.5 q(m 3 /m/s) 1.E+ 1.E 3 1.E 6 1.E 9 1.E 12 1.E 15 1.E 18 1.E 21 1.E 24 1.E 27 1.E a=.7 q=2 1 4 D.L.+5.m (b) a=.7 NNW q(m 3 /m/s) q(m 3 /m/s) 1.E+ 1.E 3 a=.5 q= E 6 1.E 9 1.E 12 1.E 15 1.E 18 1.E 21 N NNW 1.E 24 NW WNW 1.E 27 W WSW 1.E 3 (a) a=.5 1.E+ 1.E 3 a=.7 q= E 6 1.E 9 1.E 12 1.E 15 1.E 18 1.E 21 1.E 24 1.E 27 1.E 3 N NNW NW WNW W WSW (b) a=
25 Line Line Line Line5NNW Line3 Line1Line7 2cm a a P % 21-4 m 3 /m/s P15NW a a=.7 a=
26 NOWT-PARIVer /2 a= pp pp p pp No.27832p pp pp pp21-67p No p. 21
27 41pp No p 24 51pp pp pp pp pp a b d dt, Δt f h h d H 1/3 H L1/3 H L1/3_I H L1/3_S H K s N s tanθ α β η bar θ λ ζ
28 (a) N (b) NNW (c) NW (d) WNW (e) W (f) WSW NOWT-PARI
29 S(f) [m 2 sec] S(f) [m 2 sec] S(f) [m 2 sec] Frequency(Hz) S(f) [m 2 sec] 18 NNW Frequency(Hz) (a)n (b)nnw 18 NW Frequency(Hz) S(f) [m 2 sec] 18 WNW Frequency(Hz) (a)nw (b)wnw 18 W Frequency(Hz) S(f) [m 2 sec] 18 WSW Frequency(Hz) (a)w (b)nsw - 5 -
30 5. 4. G 2 [m 2 ] Deg.() (a) N (b) NNW G 2 [m 2 ] G 2 [m 2 ] Deg.() Deg.() (c) NW (d) WNW G 2 [m 2 ] G 2 [m 2 ] Deg.() (e) W Deg.() (f) WSW
31 - 52 -
32 - 53 -
33 N NNW NW
34 WNW NW WSW
35 ap29p33p36 bp4p44p47 NNW
36 cp4p19p25 NNW
37 NOWT-PARI Ver5.3 2km4km St.3 St.1St.2St.4St.5 7/158/6 87 7/ / /421 St.4 SW NOWPHAS
38 NOWPHAS 7 7/17 7/19 9s m SWWN /17 15: 7/17 18: 7/18 6: 7/18 15: (a) /28 3: 7/28 6: 7/29 13: (b) NOWPHAS
39 St.1 St.2 St.3 St.4 St.5 D.L D.L-28.2m D.L-2.3m D.L-28.5m D.L+.4m D.L-4.4m 7/17 15: 7/17 18: 7/18 6: 7/18 15: 7/28 3: 7/28 6: 7/29 13: (a) 7/17 15: 7/17 18: 7/18 6: 7/18 15: 7/28 3: 7/28 6: 7/29 13: (b) St.1St.5 28/7/158/6-6 -
40 8 7/26 7/28 12s 7/29 11s 1.53.m SWN 225 O 1 K 1 S 2 M 2 D.L. D.L = (m)B.1 St.1St.5 D.L. B.1 St m 7/ /3 12 7/18 15 D.L.+.45m 5cm 7/ / /28 6 7/29 13 St.4 St.4.5s 72 FFT St.1St.5 St.1St.3 St.5 St.4 (1) SW St.3 St
41 NOWT-PARI H 1/3 T 1/3 Smax : SW : SSW : SW : SW : SSW : SSW : SW H 1/3 T 1/3 [m] [deg.]n Smax D.L. T 1/3 [s] DT [s] TTIN [s] TDEL [s] TSVE [s] TEND [s] : : : : : : : s m 1/81/1 5m 4m 6s 5s f=
42 (2) St.1St.5 53s.33.2Hz 3s.33Hz 28/7/17 15:
43 .2Hz =5s 53s.33.2Hz 3s.33Hz 28/7/17 18:
44 (a) s.33.2Hz 3s.33Hz 28/7/18 6:
45 St.3.8Hz 12.5s St.3 53s.33.2Hz 3s.33Hz 28/7/18 15:
46 St.1 St.2 St.1.8Hz St.4 53s.33.2Hz 3s.33Hz 28/7/28 3:
47 St.5.8.2Hz 512.5s s St.4 53s.33.2Hz 3s.33Hz 28/7/28 6:
48 (b) s.33.2Hz 3s.33Hz 28/7/29 13:
49 St.3.8Hz 12.5s St.3 St.2.8Hz St.1 St.4 St.4 St.5.8.2Hz 512.5s s St.4 (c) 28 6 St.3.8Hz 12.5s St.1 St.2.8Hz St.1 St.4 St.5-7 -
50 .8.2Hz 512.5s s St.4 (3) St.1St Hz= 53s.33Hz = 3s
51 .2Hz = 5s (a) St.3 St.1St
52 St.4 St.5 St.3 St.1St.2 3s St.1 St.5 St.4 St.5 (b) St.3 St.2 St.1 St.4 St.5 St.3 St.1St.2 St.4 St.5 (c) 28 6 St.3 St.2 St.1 St.4 St.5 St.3 St.1St.2 St.4 St
53 D.L.+3.2m
54
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