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1 HAJGARHWARHIMALAYAEXPEDITION1978 TRISUL TRISUL Unnamed I II Peak 7,120 6,690 6,100
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27 PanolamicviewofNandaDevigroupseen fromatpoint5,900meteronnorthridge oftrisulmainpeak(photobysetsuosuzuki) BethartoliHimalS 6,318. Mrigthuni 6,855P. 6,648
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151 Twentyeightdays inthetrisul Sadashigelnada TheHimalayanAssociationofJapan In28thSeptember l978, wehimalayanassociationofjapan(haj) GarhwarHimalaya ExpeditionclimbedtheTrisulMainPeak(7120m),Trisul2(6690m) andunnamedpeak(about 6100m) onthenorthridgefromthetrisulmainpeak. Hadaonlytendaysfromestablished BaseCamp. WefirstplanedtoNun(7135m) inaugustl978andobtained itsclimbingpermission.but, thatpermissioncancelledwithunknownreasonindecemberl977fromgovermentoflndia. Thatcasewasgaveablowtoourexpedition.Atonce,weweredispatchedtolndiaMr.Masato Oki thedirecterofhajforobtaintoclimbingpermissionforthetrisulmainpeak. Butrefusedthatapplicationallone'sefforts. That reasonwasalreadygave to theotherexpeditionduringautumof l978. Secondly,we requested totrisul ll, thenobtainedpermissionduringfromseptembertooctober inl978. Theexpeditionbranchesoff intotw0, becouse insistedwasfewmembersclimbtonun. So theywerepresentedapplicationtonun. NowtheywereobtaineditspermissiononMarchl978. TheHAJGarhwarHimalayaExpeditionl978wereorganizedmembersasfollows. Sadashige lnada(leader38yearsold),kazuononaka(viceleader29),fujitsunoda (Climbingleader25),SetsuoSuzuki(24),HideoHatakeyama(33),Takaolijima(25), HidekoAnnaka(28woman) IsatoKitagawa (25),KeikoTsurube(24woman),Hisashi Nakaoka(28),KazuoTobita(32),TeruoNojima(Docter27),Kiyokazulmai(33),Seiji Wada(29),HiroshiMajima(23),0samuTakahara(34),ShigeoNishida(27),Kenichi Kuwabara (29),HiroshiYashima (28) TheGovermentoflndiaappointedCaptainMukeshChopra(25)asLiaisonOHicer. Heattached parachuteregimentstationedatleh inladakh. Hewasexcellent liaisonofficerandwithall one'senergyforourexpedition. OurexpeditionwasorganaizedcollectedmembersfromvariousplaceofJapan.Thecomon namewascalled $$HimalayanMountaineeringlnstituteofHAJ''. TheHAJwasfOundedl967, thenhadaboutlooomembers.sincel971,wewereenforcedexpeditionasfollows. 1971Haramuk(climbed) 1973Kanjeralwa(6612mFirst ascent) 1974LamjungHimal (6983m2ndascent) 1975RishiPahar(6992mFirst ascent),safminar(6911mfirst ascent),bamchu(6303mfirstascent),nun(7135mattemptuntil7000m) 1976Afghan HinduKush(someover5000mpeaksclimbed) 1977PK. Communism(7482mclimbed) 1978Nun(Climbed),Batura2(7710mFirstascentfromthesouthface) Now, Iwas climbed torishi_pahar inl975. TowardtheendofAugustl978,wesent tolndiaasadvancepartykazuononakaandfuji Tsunodaformanagimentofourexpedition.Weweremuchworkforsevereincustomsmalities. Wesent all our luggagefromtokyotonewdelhibyplaneonbiginingofjuly. Itwasthat luggageshouldarriveatnewdelhi afterfivedays,butdidnotpassingcustomsafteronemonth fordifficultprocedure. Mr.KaoruKikuchiwasjustduringone'sinKathmanduformanagiment ofhajkangchenjungaexpeditionl980and1981. WecalledhimandheflewtoNewDelhion 139
152 15thJuly. Hewaswithallone'senergyforcustomsclearatourluggage.
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154 pointtothesummitoftrisul2wasestimatedtobeaboutlooom, butthisroutewassodeep snow.theywereheadedtakebyturn inrusselasnow.at6:00am. theyreachedsummitof Trisul2.Thesummitwaswidedomeaboutat600squaremeter. Theystayed30minutson thesummit thenreturneddirect to thebasecampexcept fewmembers. TheTrisulMainPeakpartyalsostartedCamp3at2:30am. Theyweresotroubledwith
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