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- こうしろう かいじ
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1 Trendy Makeup Formulations
2 TRENDY Formulas 10% 40% 60% 60% 80% Claim: Concealing+ treatment sticks with water inside Concept: Mineralized water plus floral water Claim: Water holding oil for moist feel & richness Claim: Water Keeping Formula for all-day moisturization Concept: Weightless moisture (suspended by natural polymers) Products shown are top-ranking foundations/ makeup in 2012 according to customer polls in Japan (Biteki.com)
3 Watery Cream Foundation 55% Watery elements Ingredient Trade Name % Wt Lot 26- WCF Cyclopentasolixane, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite A Nikkomulese WO Cyclopentasiloxane 21.0 Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone 1.0 Dimethicone Acrylates/ Dimethicone Copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane Titanium Dioxide, Hydrogen Dimethicone Silicone HL Iron Oxides, Hydrogen Dimethicone 0.2 Iron Oxides, Hydrogen Dimethicone 0.7 Iron Oxides, Talc 0.1 HDI/ Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer/ Silica B Plastic Powder D Noni Juice for Stratum Corneum Repair (14 days) Preservative q.s. Butylene Glycol 2.0 Pentylene Glycol 2.0 Sodium Chloride 0.50 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Morinda Citrofolia Fruit Juice, Butylene Glycol, Water Noni Juice BG 1.0 Water Up too 100 TOTAL SDS-treated 5% BG 1% Noni Juice+ 5% BG Procedure: 1. Disperse A with dispermixer until uniform 2. Dissolve watery phase (B) at room temperature. 3. While mixing A, add B gradually until even 4. Disperse at 5000 rpm for 5 minutes until emulsified (200g scale)
4 Ingredient Trade Name % Wt Dextrin Palmitate Dextrin Palmitate 10.0 Mineral Oil 10.0 Polyglyceryl- 10 Pentastearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Oryzanol, Sodium Cocomonoglyceride sulfate, Water Preservative A Nikkol Oryzalipid 3.0 Hydrogenated Poly(C6-12 Olefin) Syncelane 4SP Titanium Dioxide, Aluminum Hydroxide B q.s Tipaque PFC Iron Oxide Tarox LLXLO 0.98 Iron Oxide Tarox BL Iron Oxide Tarox R-516L 0.28 Hydrogenated Poly(C6-12 Olefin) Syncelane 4SP 20.0 Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate Nikkol DGTIS 6.0 Tocopherol 0.05 Titanium Dioxide MPT HDI/ Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Silica Plastic Powder D Heat A to 85C & dissolve till uniform 2. Disperse B with 3-roll mixer and add A gradually 3. After removing the air, pour into container 4. Cool down to 20C in a freezer 5.0 Lot 26- EBB Benchmark: Etude BB Magic Balm Formulation Properties: This BB Balm formulation is unique for creamy, soft pickup (you can use your fingers or brush) and glides well into skin with a powdery finish. Syncelane 4SP, a non-irritating, non-comedogenic hydrocarbon oil is chosen as the main oil for its light,silky touch for solid balm make-up formulations. Oils are gelled with the plant-derived Dextrin Palmitate: also adds slip into pigmented formulations. The powdery after-feel is brought by Plastic Powder D400. Use from 5% for perceivable difference. Nikkol Oryzalipid is the highlight active ingredient. Rich in rice-derived triterpene alcohol, it is proven to boost collagen in the dermal matrix and improve wrinkle depth in 3 weeks.
5 Perfecting Stick Lot 26-MBB Ingredient Trade Name % Wt Ethylhexyl Palmitate Nikkol IOP 18.0 Polyethylene 4.0 Diphenylsiloxy Phenyltrimethicone 7.0 Diisostearyl Malate Nikkol DISM 5.0. Ceresin 5.0 Titanium Dioxide, Aluminum Hydroxide A B 9.45 Iron Oxide (Yellow) 0.73 Iron Oxide (Red) 0.11 Iron Oxide (Black) 0.21 Titanium Dioxide 10.0 Mica 5.0 Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate Nikkol DGTIS 4.5 Compared with regular DISM, Nikkol DISM has a unique fatty acid distribution to impart firmness in stick formulations while keeping the surface moist. Also allowing lesser use of hard waxes. Plastic Powder D-400 Superior texturizing powder with wrinkle blurring effect & softness 50x higher than Nylon / 100x higher than PMMA. HDI/ Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Silica C Plastic Powder D Ethylhexyl Palmitate Nikkol IOP 15.0 Carnauba Wax 3.0 *see side note Nikkol Oryzalipid 3.0 Preservative q.s. TOTAL Procedure: 1. Heat A & C to 85 o C and dissolve till uniform. 2. Disperse B with 3-roll mixer, and add B to A gradually. 3. While mixing A+B at 85 o C, add C gradually. 4. After defoaming, pour into container. 5. Put into freezer and take when cooled down at 20 o C.
6 2013 Summer Hit: Jelly Foundations Holds more moisture than liquid foundation Claim: 80% watery elements inside Left: Sonia Rykiel Fresh Gel Foundation (japan) Top: Chosunghah 22 Bounce Pact (S. Korea) Right: Innis Free Mineral Jelly Pact (S. Korea) Synthetic & animal free Apart from air cushion types, jelly foundations were as a hot as this year s record high summer in East asian region. All this sweating can be healthy but it also leads to depletion of lipids leading to dry skin and your make-up running off. The key promise of this format were hydration & adhesion. The watery texture gives a touch of needed moisture and the light veil-feel allows consumers to pile on a layer of sunscreen protection with ease.
7 Bouncing Jelly Foundation Lot 26-PBB INCI NAME TRADE NAME ROLE wt% Phase A Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Nikkomulese 41 Gel-network Emulsifier Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Uvinul MC-80 UV Filter 5.00 Squalane Nikkol Sugar Squalane Emollient 5.00 Phase B Butylene Glycol Preservative q.s. Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Genuvisco J-J (Sansho) Builder 0.40 Agar CS-103 Builder 1.00 Ceratonia Siliqua (Locust Bean) Gum Genugum RL-200-J Builder 0.10 Xanthan Gum, Water (2%) Builder 5.00 Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate Nikkol SMT O/W Stabilizer 0.50 Calcium Chloride (1/10 of carrageenan wt.%) Carrageenan Gel Former 0.04 Water Phase C Water Talc 3.00 Titanium Dioxide, Butylene Glycol, Water, Alumina, Silica, Polyquaternium-7 BG60PFCQ (Kobo) Iron Oxides, Butylene Glycol, Water, Alumina, Silica, Polyquaternium-7 BG60GRQ (Kobo) 0.40 Iron Oxides, Butylene Glycol, Water, Alumina, Silica, Polyquaternium-7 BG45GYQ (Kobo) 2.20 Iron Oxides, Butylene Glycol, Water, Alumina, Silica, Polyquaternium-7 BG55GBQ (Kobo) 0.20 HDI/ Trimethylol Hexylactone Crosspolymer, Silica 2.50 Plastic Powder D-400 (Toshiki) Soft-focus Powder 3.00 GEL NETWORK + NATURAL POLYMERS = SUPERIOR HYDRATION & SKIN ADHESION Water-holding, high skin affinity natural polymers are interlocked with gel-network structure promising better hydration and sweat resistance. Summer-Proof. More than 60% watery component inside! Comments/ Disclaimers: A. Iota-type carrageenan was used to achieve the desired texture of the formulation. Other types did not perform well in our tests. B. The agar used is cosmetic-grade. Other types of agar were not tested. C. Cooling down through quick refrigeration & through normal RT resulted to different texture & bounce. 1. Heat A to 80C, B to 90C and dissolve until uniform / 2. Heat C at 80 and disperse well / 3. Add B to C & mix well. 4. Homogenize B+C mixture at 2500 rpm at 80C then add A gradually/ 5. Emulsify for 5 minutes with homogenizer (5000 rpm, 200g) at 80C / 6. Remove entrapped air then pour into mold / 7. Leave at room temperature to cool down.
8 POWDER-FREE OIL-DENSE SERUM? MATT WEIGHTLESS MAKEUP? Maestro Fluid (Giorgio Armani/ Loreal) d Magic Nude Liquid Powder (Loreal Paris) d In late 2012, bare skin was given the spotlight and came a flood of complexion correctors or CC creams in the market. One of the interesting innovations were anhydrous liquid makeup that played on the concept of oil as an emollient (e.g. Tahitian tiare oil for Albion) while promising silky touch and weightless finish not found in regular liquid foundation. Oil Serum Foundation (Albion/ Kose) Powderless Liquid (Kate/ Kanebo)
9 INCI NAME TRADE NAME SUPPLIER wt% A CYCLOPENTASILOXANE,PEG-10 NIKKOL Nikkomulese WO DIMETHICONE,DISTEARDIMONIUM HEXTORITE NIKKO CHEMICALS CYCLOPENTASILOXANE KF-995 Shin-Etsu CYCLOPENTASILOXANE,DIMETHICONE,DIMET NIKKOL SILBLEND-91 HICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER NIKKO CHEMICALS DIMETHICONE KF-96A-6cs Shin-Etsu DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER,DIMETHICONE KSG-16 Shin-Etsu VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER KSP-100 Shin-Etsu DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRIMETHICOME KF-56A Shin-Etsu ACRYLATES/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER,ISODODECANE KP-550 Shin-Etsu PEG-9 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE KF-6028 Shin-Etsu LIMNANTHES ALBA (MEADOWFOAM) SEED OIL NIKKOL Meadowfoam Oil NIKKO CHEMICALS MICA NCC-322 YAMAGUCHI MICA TOCOPHEROL ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE Uvinul MC-80 BASF HDI/TRIMETHYLOL HEXYLLACTONE CROSSPOLYMER,SILICA PLASTIC POWDER D-400 NIKKO CHEMICALS Preservative q.s. TITANIUM DIOXIDE,CYCLOPENTASILOXANE,PEG/PPG- 18/18 FAS70USI Kobo Products DIMETHICONE,TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE IRON OXIDES,CYCLOPENTASILOXANE,PEG/PPG- 18/18 FAS55ERSI Kobo Products DIMETHICONE,TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE IRON OXIDES,CYCLOPENTASILOXANE,PEG/PPG- 18/18 FAS50EYSI Kobo Products DIMETHICONE,TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE IRON OXIDES,CYCLOPENTASILOXANE,PEG/PPG- 18/18 DIMETHICONE,TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE FAS60EBSI Kobo Products Total to Powder Fluid Foundation (inspired by Maestro Fluid Foundation) Notes: Foundation is stabilized by Nikkomulese WO (5%) + KF6028 for minimal separation. Meadowfoam Seed Oil was chosen for its light feel and superior skin restorative properties. Lot 26-AMB Procedure: Mix everything using a disperser (3000 rpm, 3 min)
10 Elegance Fairest Skin SPF 20, PA++ 5 shades 35 ml, 5250 JPY
11 水 シクロメチコン メトキシケイヒ酸エチルヘキシル エタノール イソノナン酸イソトリデシル ラウリル PEG-9 ポリジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン PEG-9 ポリジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン メチレンビスベンゾトリアゾリルテトラメチルブチルフェノール トリエチルヘキサノイン ジエチルアミノヒドロキシベンゾイル安息香酸ヘキシル ジパルミチン酸アスコルビル センチフォリアバラ花エキス トコフェロール ローズヒップ油 BG BHT ( ジメチコン / ビニルジメチコン ) クロスポリマー ジステアルジモニウムヘクトライト ジメチコン ステアラルコニウムヘクトライト タルク トリイソステアリン酸イソプロピルチタン トリエトキシカプリリルシラン ハイドロゲンジメチコン メチコン ラウリン酸ポリグリセリル -10 塩化 Na 含水シリカ フェノキシエタノール メチルパラベン (+/-) マイカ 酸化チタン 酸化亜鉛 酸化鉄 水酸化 Al Addiction Tinted Skin Protector SPF 50, PA+++, 5 shades 30 ml, 4725 JPY Formulation to use Nikkomulese WO-CF Plus Oil: Silicone HL 88 Active: 1% Noni Juice, 1% Uji Tea
12 INGREDIENT LIST water squalane octyldodecyl neopentanoate butylene glycol propanediol glyceryl stearate behenyl alcohol peg-40 stearate polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate aloe barbadensis leaf water thermus thermophillus ferment trehalose caffeine glycerin linoleic acid lecithin stearic acid hydrogenated lecithin sorbitol polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate tocopheryl acetate ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer sodium stearoyl lactylate sodium hyaluronate tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate pentaerythrityl tetra-di-tbutyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate isopropyl titanium triisostearate synthetic fluorphlogopite xanthan gum silica alumina sodium dehydroacetate tin oxide disodium edta phenoxyethanol [+/- mica titanium dioxide (ci 77891) iron oxides (ci 77492) iron oxides (ci 77491) iron oxides (ci 7799)] [iln39833] Clinique Moisture Surge CC Cream SPF 30, PA+++, 4 shades 40 ml, 4725 JPY Emulsifier: Nikkomulese 41 Oil: Sugar Squalane, ODM-100 Dispersant: Hexaglyn PR-15, Lecinol S-10 Active: Nikkol VCIP, VFIP
13 15% watery component RMK Smoothing Stick SPF 14, PA + 6 g (est), 2625 JPY 成分 : シクロヘキサシロキサン 水 パラフィン ポリメチルシルセスキオキサン ポリエチレン シクロペンタシロキサン ( ビニルジメチコン / メチコンシルセスキオキサン ) クロスポリマー ラウロイルリシン DPG メトキシケイヒ酸エチルヘキシル イソステアリン酸ソルビタン リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル ヒドロキシステアリン酸エチルヘキシル ペンチレングリコール マルチトール ダイマージリノール酸 ( フィトステリル / イソステアリル / セチル / ステアリル / ベヘニル ) マカデミアナッツ脂肪酸フィトステリル ジステアルジモニウムヘクトライト ( ジメチコン / ビニルジメチコン ) クロスポリマー メチコン BG 含水シリカ トリベヘニン 水酸化 Al エタノール イソステアリルアルコール 加水分解シルク ローヤルゼリーエキス ローズマリー葉エキス タチジャコウソウエキス カロチン メチルパラベン タルク マイカ 酸化チタン 酸化鉄 硫酸 Ba Emulsifier: Decaglyn 7-HS Oil: DISM? Dispersant: Hexaglyn PR-15, Lecinol S-10 Water holding Oil??
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