Importance and Countermeasures for Sebum Control in Application of Makeup Cosmetics Koichi NOMURA POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., R&D Planning Department 27-1, Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama 221-0833, JAPAN Abstract: Sebum secretion from sebaceous glands plays an important role in the protection of skin because of its wettability, lubricity and film-formation. Therefore, decrease of secretion amount of sebum causes an chapped-skin and a fissure. On the other hand, it is reported that excessive secretion of sebum stimulated a sticky feeling on skin, a formation of comedo and a negaive effect to skin by peroxylipids. Furthermore, make-up film deterioration by sebum must be considered as influence on makeup products. Almost all cosmetic users do NOT satisfy to "long-lasting" effect of currently available make-ups, therefore, the relationship between make-up film deterioration and secretion sebum is extremely use for formulation of cosmetics. In this report, some properties of secretion sebum is shown at former part, and then, countermeasure methods against sebum as make-up ingredient is introduced at latter one. Key words: Sebum, Sebaceous Gland, Measuring Method, Make-up Film Deterioration, Cosme-Ceutirnic
Fig. 1 Structure of a Sebaceous Follicle (Ref.1).
Fig. 2 Classification of Makeup Foundations. Fig. 3 Schematic Illustrations of Makeup Film Deterioration Process.
Fig. 4 Rerationship between Sebum Constitution and a Ratio of Gloss Values Measure after Four Hours and Zero Hour on an Applied Conventional Makeup.
Fig. 5 Selective Adsorption of Free Fatty Acid from Artificial Sebum by Foundation Formulation and Gloss Value Rising of the in-vitro Measurement. Fig. 6 Comparison of Time of the Makeup Deterioration in Sensory Evaluation at Room Temperature (n=34). Fig. 7 Relationships between Surface Tensions and Rates of Perfluoroalkyl Silane Treatment.
Fig. 9 Structure of Typical Antiandrogens. Table 1 Effective Crude Drug Extracts for Suppression of Sebum Secretion. Fig. 8 Trilaminar Structure among Silicone Thin Films, Silicas and Titania Micro Particles.
2) Greene, R.S., et al, J. Invest. Derm., 54, 240 (1970) 3) P.E. Pochi, et al, Advances in Biology of Skin, Vol. VI, Aging, Ed. by Mantagna, W., Pargamon Press, p. 121 (1965) 5) D.T. Downing et al, J. Invest. Dermatol., 53, 322 (1969) 10) C. Kan, S. Kimura, et al., J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn., 29, 242 (1995) 16) K. Nomura, Y. Takasuka, H. Nishimura, K. Motoyoshi, S. Yamanaka, 20th IFSCC Congress Proceedings, 2, 41 (1998)