砂浜砕波帯における流れと地形変化
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1 47 * Currents and Morphological Changes in the Surf Zone on a Sandy Beach Yoshiaki KURIYAMA, Littoral Drift Division, Port and Airport Research Institute 1 1 1) ρd M M x y = (1) t x y 2.1 M x UM UM x y + + = t x y η U U ρgd + LD + LD (2) x x x y y 1 2 S S xx xy + + τ bx x y (1) (2) (2)x y ρ D = h + η h * kuriyama@pari.go.jp η t M x = ρdum y = ρdv UV x y L
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8 Case Case Case ) Breaking Wave Direction (degree) 2) ) HORS 4) Longuet-Higgins, M. S.: Longshore current generated by obliquely incident sea waves, 2, J. Geophys. Res., (197) P2m 5) Galvin, C. J. and Eagleson, P. E.: Experimental study of longshore currents on a planar beach, P2m Tech. Mem. U.S. Army Coast. Eng. Res. Cent., 1 P3m (1965) ) Thornton, E. B. and Guza, R. T.: Surf zone longshore currents and random waves: field data and models, J. Physical Oceanography, 16 (1986) P2m P3m 7) 37 (199) ) (1992) ) 31 (1984) ) 27, (1987) ) 36 Frequency
9 55 (1989) ) T.C.: Longshore currents over barred beach, Proc. Coastal Dynamics 95, (1995) ) (1982) ) Kuriyama, Y.: Investigation on cross-shore 635 (1999) sediment transport rates and flow parameters in 22) the surf zone using field data, Rep. Port and Harbour Research Institute, Vol.31, No.2, pp.3-58, 43 (1996) ) 14) ) Sonu,C.J.: Field observation of nearshore circulation and meandering currents, J. Geophys. Res., (1972) ) Reniers, A.J.H.M., Thornton, E.B. and Lippmann, 43 (1996) ) 5 (23) ) 25) (24) (1974) ) 17) 163 (1973) (24) ) 18) 4 (1993) (1996) ) Kuriyama, Y.: Hydro- and morpho-dynamics on a 28) barred beach, Technical Note of the Port and Airport Research Institute, 128 (22) (1997)
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ECOH/YG No. 6 556 754 On the Role o Spectral Width and Shape Parameters in Control o Wave Height Distribution Yoshimi GODA and Masanobu KUDAKA -4-6-4 ( -4-6-4 Distributions o individual wave heights approximately
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Field Observations of Aeolian Sand Transport Rate Using a Piezoelectric Ceramic Sensor This study conducted field observations in terms of the number
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微分積分 サンプルページ この本の定価 判型などは, 以下の URL からご覧いただけます. ttp://www.morikita.co.jp/books/mid/00571 このサンプルページの内容は, 初版 1 刷発行時のものです. i ii 014 10 iii [note] 1 3 iv 4 5 3 6 4 x 0 sin x x 1 5 6 z = f(x, y) 1 y = f(x)
2007/8 Vol. J90 D No. 8 Stauffer [7] 2 2 I 1 I 2 2 (I 1(x),I 2(x)) 2 [13] I 2 = CI 1 (C >0) (I 1,I 2) (I 1,I 2) Field Monitoring Server
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a) Change Detection Using Joint Intensity Histogram Yasuyo KITA a) 2 (0 255) (I 1 (x),i 2 (x)) I 2 = CI 1 (C>0) (I 1,I 2 ) (I 1,I 2 ) 2 1. [1] 2 [2] [3] [5] [6] [8] Intelligent Systems Research Institute,
The Physics of Atmospheres CAPTER :
The Physics of Atmospheres CAPTER 4 1 4 2 41 : 2 42 14 43 17 44 25 45 27 46 3 47 31 48 32 49 34 41 35 411 36 maintex 23/11/28 The Physics of Atmospheres CAPTER 4 2 4 41 : 2 1 σ 2 (21) (22) k I = I exp(
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IPSJ SIG Technical Report NetMAS NetMAS NetMAS One-dimensional Pedestrian Model for Fast Evacuation Simulator Shunsuke Soeda, 1 Tomohisa Yam
1 1 1 1 1 NetMAS NetMAS NetMAS One-dimensional Model for Fast Evacuation Simulator Shunsuke Soeda, 1 Tomohisa Yamashita, 1 Masaki Onishi, 1 Ikushi Yoda 1 and Itsuki Noda 1 We propose the one-dimentional