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1 (Lessons Learned) Lessons Learned (Führer) 1/34
2 ( ) ( ) 2011/3/11 ( ) /34
3 ! KY( ) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) M9.0 (Frostbite) Body 3/34
4 7000m 8000m (6750m) ( 15 ) ( 80 ) ! 50? 3 ACKU 4/34
5 ACKU (Wilderness) 10cm 5/34
6 ? ( ) 3 N N N!! 3 Y? GPS 6/34
7 (Lessons Learned) ( ) 7/34
8 ACKU 10 ACKU BC 2m 5m!! 8/34
9 OK 2009 (Hypo-thermia) 9/34
10 4 2 10/34
11 mm Lopchin Feng C 2 8mm Fixed rope mm x 3,000m 8mm Fixed Rope 11/34
12 1968 Steele Walsh M 10 m 10 2 ( ) 12/34
13 20M (Rappelling) ( ) 3 ( ) 1810m m 20m 13/34
14 ( ) 150!! 14/34
15 3m! ACKU A A /34
16 3 3 3?? 16/34
17 m I thought you were hit by thunder lightning! You are very lucky. OK (Utah ) 17/34
18 7 (30 40 ) 50m 100m M N 20m M M N M M N M 18/34
19 1/4 Hidden Crevasse 1 3 5m 7m Crevasse 1968 Snow dome hidden crevasse m 3m GPS 2007 GPS GPS 19/34
20 2 20/34
21 ( ) GPS 21/34
22 1974 Sherpi Kangri 3 KY ( ) /34
23 KY ( ) Risk Management ( ) Party Low risk Hazardous condition : 23/34
24 ? 1m (Cornice) Type Type-A Face( ) Type-B Face Scarp( : ) --- Type-C A +B Type-A Type-B Type-C : /34
25 3m (Adz) (Blade) (Pick) Spitz (point) (Adz) (Blade) m (Spitz: :pick--- ) Ratings and standards There are 2 types of CE mark (European standard) for ice axes: B-rated axes are designed for winter hillwalking and glacier walking. They have shafts strong enough to allow use as a belay and are best used on pure ice and snow rather than 25/34
26 mixed ground. T-rated axes are designed for climbing and mountaineering. They are much more heavy duty than B-rated axes. This means that they are strong enough to be used on mixed ground and torqued into iced-up rock cracks. Walking Axe / Mountaineering Axe / Technical Axe ( ) Steikeisen : Y ( ) Y Y : N ( 2009) ACKU ( ) ( ) ? 26/34
27 GPS Face Frostbite Hypothermia 7000m : lost way ( Emergency ) Back-up 27/34
28 crevasse? Bergshcrunt Yukon N ( ) 28/34
29 Anchor-2 Anchor-3 Anchor-1 Mechanical Ascender-A Pulley-1 Lifting Rope Belay rope Pulley-2 Pulley-3 Mechanical Ascender-B Rescue Step 1) Anchor-1 2) Mechanical Ascender-A 3) Set Amchor-2,3 4) Assemble pulley-1,2,3 and M-Ascender-B 5) Lifting Rope setting 29/34
30 Belay rope Anchor Lifting from crevasse Mechanical Ascender-A Mechanical Ascender-B T= (1+ )x (1+ )x (1+ )x W/3 = Pulley Rescuer Victim Sling Schlinge Weight 75kg Tension 48.8kg Sub-rope Rescuer rope -----!!( etc.)?? ---- ( ) ( ) 30/34
31 / Simulation (Key words) Fatal Error Error : (ISO 9001 ) 31/34
32 Do safely Prevent acting automatically. Think of what you are doing. Be self-sufficient; think for yourself and do not rely on thoughts of others. Safety is everyone s responsibility. Test the terrain before doing. Hidden Crevasses rope loop Snow Bridge Fix Rope Setting 8mm rope 6 rope (1968 Alaska Top 6mm ) Ascender 6mm 32/34
33 Fix Rope Belay point 1)--- main rope Belay point-2----fixed rope Lead climber Main rope and pulling fixed rope with pulley. pulley Fix Rope Main Rope Anchor Sherpi Kangri m acclimatization 6500m deterioration 8000m Tactics 500m Camp 5000m 33/34
34 34/34
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Cain & Abel: False Religion vs. The Gospel Now Adam knew Eve his wife, and she conceived and bore Cain, saying, I have gotten a man with the help of the LORD. And again, she bore his brother Abel. Now
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2 except for a female subordinate in work. Using personal name with SAN/KUN will make the distance with speech partner closer than using titles. Last
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