(Lessons Learned) Lessons Learned (Führer) 1/34
( ) ( ) 2011/3/11 ( ) --- --- --- --- 2/34
--- ---! KY( ) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) M9.0 (Frostbite) Body 3/34
7000m 8000m (6750m) ( 15 ) ( 80 ) 50 5 10! 50? 3 ACKU 4/34
ACKU (Wilderness) 10cm 5/34
? ( ) 3 N N N!! 3 Y? GPS 6/34
(Lessons Learned) ( ) 7/34
ACKU 10 ACKU BC 2m 5m!! 8/34
OK 2009 (Hypo-thermia) 9/34
4 2 10/34
8 6 6 1968 6mm 3 2009 Lopchin Feng C 2 8mm Fixed rope 1976 8mm x 3,000m 8mm Fixed Rope 11/34
1968 Steele Walsh M 10 m 10 2 ( ) 12/34
20M (Rappelling) ( ) 3 ( ) 1810m 1690.9m 20m 13/34
( ) 150!! 14/34
3m! ACKU A A 1967 4 24 15/34
3 3 3?? 16/34
m I thought you were hit by thunder lightning! You are very lucky. OK (Utah ) 17/34
7 (30 40 ) 50m 100m M N 20m M M N M M N M 18/34
1/4 Hidden Crevasse 1 3 5m 7m Crevasse 1968 Snow dome hidden crevasse m 3m GPS 2007 GPS GPS 19/34
2 20/34
1. 2. 3. ( ) 10 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. GPS 21/34
1974 Sherpi Kangri 3 KY ( ) 300 22/34
KY ( ) Risk Management ( ) Party Low risk Hazardous condition : 23/34
? 1m (Cornice) Type Type-A Face( ) Type-B Face Scarp( : ) --- Type-C A +B ---- ----- Type-A Type-B Type-C : 3 2 3 24/34
3m (Adz) (Blade) (Pick) Spitz (point) ----- (Adz) (Blade) 2008 200m (Spitz: :pick--- ) --------- Ratings and standards There are 2 types of CE mark (European standard) for ice axes: B-rated axes are designed for winter hillwalking and glacier walking. They have shafts strong enough to allow use as a belay and are best used on pure ice and snow rather than 25/34
mixed ground. T-rated axes are designed for climbing and mountaineering. They are much more heavy duty than B-rated axes. This means that they are strong enough to be used on mixed ground and torqued into iced-up rock cracks. Walking Axe / Mountaineering Axe / Technical Axe ( ) Steikeisen ----- ------ : Y ( ) Y Y : N ( 2009) ACKU ----- ( ) ----- ( ) 10 ------? 26/34
GPS Face Frostbite Hypothermia 7000m : lost way ------ ( Emergency ) Back-up 27/34
crevasse? Bergshcrunt Yukon N ( ) 28/34
Anchor-2 Anchor-3 Anchor-1 Mechanical Ascender-A Pulley-1 Lifting Rope Belay rope Pulley-2 Pulley-3 Mechanical Ascender-B Rescue Step 1) Anchor-1 2) Mechanical Ascender-A 3) Set Amchor-2,3 4) Assemble pulley-1,2,3 and M-Ascender-B 5) Lifting Rope setting 29/34
Belay rope Anchor Lifting from crevasse Mechanical Ascender-A Mechanical Ascender-B T= (1+ )x (1+ )x (1+ )x W/3 =0.1 0.25 Pulley Rescuer Victim Sling Schlinge Weight 75kg Tension 48.8kg Sub-rope Rescuer rope -----!!( etc.)?? ---- ( ) ( ) 30/34
/ Simulation (Key words) Fatal Error Error ------ --- ----- 1 29 300 : http://www.shippai.org/shippai/html/index.php (ISO 9001 ) 31/34
12 1. 2. Do safely ------- Prevent acting automatically. Think of what you are doing. Be self-sufficient; think for yourself and do not rely on thoughts of others. Safety is everyone s responsibility. Test the terrain before doing. Hidden Crevasses rope loop Snow Bridge Fix Rope Setting 8mm rope 6 rope (1968 Alaska Top 6mm ) Ascender 6mm 32/34
Fix Rope Belay point 1)--- main rope Belay point-2----fixed rope Lead climber Main rope and pulling fixed rope with pulley. pulley Fix Rope Main Rope Anchor Sherpi Kangri 1976 4000-5000m acclimatization 6500m deterioration 8000m Tactics 500m Camp 5000m 33/34
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