J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn. 7-chome, Edogawa-ku, Tokyo 132, Japan 2.1 J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Japan. Vol. 31, No. 2 1997 167
Fig.-1 Balanced fiber method
Fig.-2 The effects of perming and IG on breaking off of cuticles A: unpermed hair in water, B: permed hair in water, C: permed hair in 25% IG aq. Significance **: p<0.01. Fig.-3 The effects of perming and IC on swelling of hair A: unpermed hair in water, B: permed hair in water, C: permed hair in 25% IG aq. Significance **: p<0.01. Fig.-4 The changes of stiffness index by polyols A: control, B: 3-methyl-1, 3-butanediol (IG), C: 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, D: glycerin Significance **: p<0.01. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Japan. Vol. 31, No. 2 1997 169
Fig.-5 Sensory test Bundles of permed hairs were immersed in 25% aqueous solution of polyols at room temperature for overnight. The softness of bundles were examined by means of Scheffe's comparison test. Fig.-6 The effects of IG concentration on bending characteristics of permed or unpermed hair Fig.-7 The effects of the amount of IG in hair on bending characteristics
Fig.-8 The effects of water content on flexibility of permed hair Rd and water content were measured in dif ferent humidities. A: RH 50%, B: RH 65%, C: RH 85% Table-1 The changes of water content of hairs by polyols Bundles of permed hairs were treated with polyols, and subjected to the moisture control at RH 65%. The water content of the hairs was then measured. Fig.-9 DSC measurement of hairs treated with polyols The hair samples were immersed in 25% aqueous solution of polyols at room tem perature for overnight o The effects of poly ols on hair protein were examined DSC. A: control (untreated), B: 3-methyl-1, 3 - butanediol (IG), C: glycerin J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Japan. Vol. 31, No. 2 1997 171
Table-2 The effects on hair flexibility of various polyols The permed hair samples were immersed in 1.5M aqueous solution of polyols. Rds were measured at RH 65%. Fig.-10 The effect of water on hair protein The hair samples were subjected to the moisture control at various humidities. The effects of water on hair protein were examined, using high-pressure DSC. A: RH 28%, B: RH 48%, C: RH 68% D: RH 85%
Fig.-11 Permeabilines of polyols Fig.-12 The change of flexibility per mole of polyol The flexibility per mole of polyol was calculated from Rd and permeability of each polyol. The letters P, S and T on OH type refer to primary, secondary and tertiary alcohol, respec tively. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Japan. Vol. 31, No. 2 1997 173
Fig.-13 The model of the changes in hair treated with polyol
2) G. C. Henney, R. V. Evanson, G. J. Sperandio, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 9, 329-336 (1958) 4) G. V. Scott, C. R. Robbins, Text. Res. J., 39, 975-976 (1969) 5) G. V. Scott, C. R. Robbins, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 29, 469-485 (1978) 7) M. Arai, K. Morita, K. Yahagi, S. Naito, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Japan, 29, 125-132 (1995) The Effects of Polyols on Human Minoru Hosokawa, Mihoko Sato, Masanao Sadai LION Corporation, Beauty-care Research Though polyols were widely used in hair-care products, these effects on hair hardly investigated. We studied the effects of polyols on hair, using 3-methyl-1, 3-butanediol (isoprene glycol; IG). It was shown that IG de creased the amount of breaking off of cuticle and that the swelling of hair was suppressed by IG. Also, we studied the effects of polyols on hair flexibility by means of balanced fiber methods. The treatment with polyols increased the flexibility of hair. Then the water contents of hair decreased by polyol treatment. We examined the effects of polyols on the structure of hair protein, using DSC. The denaturation temperature of ƒ -helix were lowered by polyol treatment or by the increase of water content of hair. These results sug gested that polyols acted the same manner with water in the hair. Key words: polyol, 3-methyl-1, 3-butanediol, IG, cuticle, swelling, flexibility, water contents, DSC, ƒ -helix J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Japan. Vol. 31, No. 2 1997 175