砂浜砕波帯における流れと地形変化
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- しげのぶ いいはた
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1 47 * Currents and Morphological Changes in the Surf Zone on a Sandy Beach Yoshiaki KURIYAMA, Littoral Drift Division, Port and Airport Research Institute 1 1 1) ρd M M x y = (1) t x y 2.1 M x UM UM x y + + = t x y η U U ρgd + LD + LD (2) x x x y y 1 2 S S xx xy + + τ bx x y (1) (2) (2)x y ρ D = h + η h * [email protected] η t M x = ρdum y = ρdv UV x y L
2 48 S xx S xy radiation stressτ bx xy x y radiation stress 2,3) ) ) ) X 3.1 V P P 5)
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6 52 13y bar y peak y peak -y bar 5cm/s 21) (2)C d ρ a W 2 sinα w C d 15 ρ a W α w.5 C d
7 53 1 N P115m P19m HORS P285m S P38m Time(year) m P115m 1 N P2m Case P2m P2m P3m P3m Case R n 18 R /( ) n = U sn U s1 + U s2 + U s3 (4) Case 3-5 R n n U sn n P115m P19m S P285m P38m Time (year) P115m 1 Case Case 1 Case 2 18 P24m Seaward Distance (m) P2m 18 Alongshore Distance(km) Alongshore Distance (km) Contribution Rate (%)
8 Case Case Case ) Breaking Wave Direction (degree) 2) ) HORS 4) Longuet-Higgins, M. S.: Longshore current generated by obliquely incident sea waves, 2, J. Geophys. Res., (197) P2m 5) Galvin, C. J. and Eagleson, P. E.: Experimental study of longshore currents on a planar beach, P2m Tech. Mem. U.S. Army Coast. Eng. Res. Cent., 1 P3m (1965) ) Thornton, E. B. and Guza, R. T.: Surf zone longshore currents and random waves: field data and models, J. Physical Oceanography, 16 (1986) P2m P3m 7) 37 (199) ) (1992) ) 31 (1984) ) 27, (1987) ) 36 Frequency
9 55 (1989) ) T.C.: Longshore currents over barred beach, Proc. Coastal Dynamics 95, (1995) ) (1982) ) Kuriyama, Y.: Investigation on cross-shore 635 (1999) sediment transport rates and flow parameters in 22) the surf zone using field data, Rep. Port and Harbour Research Institute, Vol.31, No.2, pp.3-58, 43 (1996) ) 14) ) Sonu,C.J.: Field observation of nearshore circulation and meandering currents, J. Geophys. Res., (1972) ) Reniers, A.J.H.M., Thornton, E.B. and Lippmann, 43 (1996) ) 5 (23) ) 25) (24) (1974) ) 17) 163 (1973) (24) ) 18) 4 (1993) (1996) ) Kuriyama, Y.: Hydro- and morpho-dynamics on a 28) barred beach, Technical Note of the Port and Airport Research Institute, 128 (22) (1997)
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Field Observations of Aeolian Sand Transport Rate Using a Piezoelectric Ceramic Sensor This study conducted field observations in terms of the number
Field Observations of Aeolian Sand Transport Rate Using a Piezoelectric Ceramic Sensor This study conducted field observations in terms of the number of blown sand impacts and wind velocity in the period
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Sci.Rep.Hokkaido Fish.Res.Inst. Age determination of Japanese flounder Paralichthys olivaceus, caught from Ishikari Bay, using cross sections of otoliths NOBORU HOSHINO Central Fisheries Research Institute,
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1) 2) 3) 250Hz 500Hz RESEARCH ON THE PHYSICAL VOLUME OF THE DYNAMIC VIBRATION RESPONSE AND THE REDUCTION OF THE FLOOR IMPACT SOUND LEVEL IN FLOORS OF RESIDENTIAL HOUSING Hideo WATANABE *1 This study was
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Annuals of Disas. Prev. Res. Inst., Kyoto Univ., No. 48 A, 2005 1. 2004 26 9 4,000m 28 8.7 2. 2004 12 26 M9.0 6cm ( 1,600km) ( 6,000km) 1900 Table 23 2 150 60 2 22 7 72 7,530 11 (1) 1755 62,000 (2) 1782
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