A Development in the Objective Measurement of the Quality of Knitted Fabrics Used for Underwear Part 1. Measurement of the Fabric-Characteristics Haru
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1 A Development in the Objective Measurement of the Quality of Knitted Fabrics Used for Underwear Part 1. Measurement of the Fabric-Characteristics Haruko Sakaguchi*, Masako Niwa* and Sueo Kawabata** *Department of Clothing Science, Nara Women's University, Nara **Department of Polymer Chemistry, Kyoto University, Kyoto Abstract The quality of the knitted fabrics used for underwear has been evaluated by means of hand judgement for a long time by professional experts. In the series of this paper, the objective evaluation of this fabric quality is developed by correlating the subjective quality judged by experts with some of measurable fabric characteristics. In the part 1, these fabric characteristics are selected and their measuring method are investigated. The characteristics selected here are included in the two categories, fabric hand and the thermal/water transport property of the fabric. The fabric hands are those three primary hands expressed by hand values which are measured objectively, KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness) and FUKURAMI (fullness and bulkiness) for the quality on the condition that these fabrics are used in winter season. On the summer season condition, SHARI (crispness) is applied instead of NUMERI on the winter condition. These hand values are obtained objectively on the basic of fabric mechanical properties measured by KES-F system. Suitable measurement conditions of these mechanical parameters for the underwear fabrics are investigated firstly then the suitable equation translating these mechanical parameters into the primary hand values are selected from the translation equations which have been developed for the other type of fabrics. The thermal/water transport properties considered here are : qmax (a measure of warm/cool feeling), Qw (heat loss to air through fabric placed on a wet paper which simulates a wet skin), QD (the same measure as Qw but the fabric is placed on a dry heat plate), K' (heat conductance), MR (equilibrium regain) and WA (the maximum water content). These characteristic values of 80 comercial samples are measured and it is confirmed that these characteristic values well separate the fabrics of different quality. (Received December 7, 1985)
2
3 Table 1 Measurement conditions for the mechanical and thermal/water properties for underwear knitted fabrics transport * These characteristic values are selected for the fabric quality prediction as shown in the Part II of this series.
4 Fig. 1 A typical shear property of underwear knitted fabrics Fig. 2 Two methods for the measurement of heat dissipation from a heat plate to air
5 Table 3 Mean values, standard deviations, the minimum and the maximum values of mechanical values of the samples Table 2 Samples, collected from commercial fabrics (Number of samples ; N=80) -1;Wale direction, -2;Course directionf specimen, b;back side ;Face side of of specimen
6 Table 4 The mean value of wale and course directional values for each mechanical property used for translating mechanical values into primary hand value. This table shows the average values. For translation, some of mechanical characteristic values are used in their logalism value and normalized by the mean and the standard deviation shown in the right hand block in this table Table 5 Distribution of primary hand values of the underwear fabrics samples calculated by the different translation-equations of the nd lerwear fabric quality u
7 "KOSHI" "NUMERI" "FUKURAMI" "SHARI" \ Table 6 Primary hands selected for the objective measurement of the underwear fabric quality Fig. 3 Distribution of primary hand value calculated by eq. KN 402-KT, KN 202-DS and KN 101 for each of four primary hands Fig. 4 Properties of the samples of higher quality. The average values of N=8 and N=10 samples for winter and summer use respectively are shown
8 Table 7 Mean values, standard deviations, the minimum and the maximum values of thermal/ water transport properties of the underwear fabric samples * These characteristic values are selected for the fabric quality prediction as shown in the Part II in this series. "FUKURAMI", "SHARI" Fig. 5 Properties of underwear fabrics made of different fibre compositions
9 1) H. N. Yoon and A. Buckley ; Text. Res. J., 54, 289 (1984) 2) H. N. Yoon, L. C. Sawyer and A. Buckley ; Text. Res. J., 54, 357 (1984) 3) R. N. DeMartino, H. N. Yoon, A. Buckley, C. V. Evins, R. B. Averell, W. W. Jackson, D. C. Schulitz, C. L. Becker H. E. Booker and N. R. S. Hollies ; Text. Res. J., 54, 447 (1984) 4) N. R. S. Hollies, R. N. DeMartino, H. N. Yoon, A. Buckley, C. L. Becker and W. Jackson ; Text. Res. J., 54, 544 (1984) 5) R. N. DeMartino, H. N. Yoon and A. Buckley, Text. Res. J., 54, 602 (1984) 6) D. L. Munden ; Abstruct of the 3rd Japan-Australia Symposium, The Text. Mach. Soc. of Japan, p.12 (1985) 7) D. A. Watkins and K. Slater ; J. Text. Inst., 72, 11 (1981) 8) P. R. Harnett and P. N. Mehta ; Text. Res. J., 54, 471 (1984) 9) I. M. Stuart and E. F. Denby ; Text. Res. J., 53, 655 (1983) 10) H. B. Hardy, J. W. Ballon,and O. C. Wetmore ; Text. Res. J., 23, 1 (1953) 11) F. W. Behmann, E. Heerd Eu and H. J. Heinrichs ; Mell. Textilber., 41, 226 (1960) 12) J. H. Mecheels ; Text. Res. J., 36, 375 (1966) 13) D. M. Scheurell, S. M. Spivak and N. R. S. Hollies ; Text. Res. J., 55, 394 (1985) 15) M. M. Adler and W. K. Walsh ; Text. Res. J., 54, 334 (1984) Fig. 6 Properties of underwear fabrics having different knitted structures
10 16) B. Farnwarth and P. A. Dolhan ; Text. Res. J., 55, 627 (1985) 23) Wm. Kirk, Jr., and S. M. Ibraham ; Text. Res. J., 36, 37 Appendix Constant parameters of equation for translating mechanical values into primary hand values for underwear fabrics (KN 403-KTU) (a) Xi, Xi, ƒð, table (b) Ci table
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