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1 May 16, 2009 Ulsan, Republic of Korea Whaling and Whale Meat in Japanese Food Culture Hisashi Hamaguchi Sonoda Women s College, Japan Thank you very much for inviting me to the International Whale Symposium at Ulsan, the Republic of Korea. My name is Hisashi Hamaguchi. I teach cultural anthropology at Sonoda Women s College, Amagakai, Japan. I have studied the whaling cultures of Japan and Bequia, a small island in the Caribbean Sea. Today, I would like to present a brief summary of the history of whaling in Japan and whale meat in Japanese food culture. 1

2 Contents 1. History of Whaling in Japan 2. Whaling in Contemporary Japan 3. Whale Meat in Japanese Food Culture 4. Conclusion My presentation is divided into three parts, as this slide shows. 1) History of whaling in Japan, 2) Whaling in contemporary Japan, and 3) Whale meat in Japanese food culture. I will then present my conclusions. 2

3 1. History of Whaling in Japan : 5000 Uses of Small Cetaceans: the Early Jomon period (5000 B.P.) Remains from the Mawaki site 3, 4m Let us begin with a brief history of whaling in Japan. Cetaceans are generally divide into large and small based on their length. Large ones (over 3-4 meters) are called whales, and small ones (less than 3-4 meters) are called dolphins/porpoises. Compared with whales, it is easy to catch dolphins/porpoises. So we think the dolphin/porpoise hunting was developed first. A lot of dolphin bones (e.g. Pacific white-sided dolphins, short-beaked common dolphins) and stone spear points were found at the Mawaki site, Ishikawa Prefecture. This shows that the dolphin hunting was conducted in the Early Jomon period ( B.C.). So we have a history of dolphin hunting for over 5000 years. 3

4 : Uses of Large Cetaceans: Stranded Whales (passive) Active Whaling ex. Right Whale, Gray Whale How about whaling of the large cetaceans? We think people used stranded whales at first. It was easy to use the stranded whales, and was not necessary to have the elaborated skills associated with hunting. Those who had known a large quantity of meat and blubber from a stranded whale started active whaling as the next step. This was because there was no guarantee of another stranded whale. The large cetaceans, such as right whales and gray whales, used to migrate in the neighboring waters of Japan. It was easy to catch them because they swam slowly. That is why people went out to hunt these whales. 4

5 1570 (in the 1570s) Whaling with Hand-harpoons 1675 (in 1675) Whaling with Nets 200 [200 years] In the 1570s, a whaling method called Tsukitori-hou (whaling with handharpoons) began in the Ise Bay. Although this method gave whalers a certain degree of success, it was too inefficient due to the struck-and-lost rates. After much trial and error, whalers invented a new whaling method called Amitori-hou (whaling with nets) in Taiji in This new method increased catching efficiency considerably and decreased the struck-and-lost rates. The Amitori-hou had been used for 200 years. 5

6 (in 1878) the End of Whaling with Nets 20 [Toward a New Whaling Technology] (in 1899) Introduction of the Norwegian Whaling A New Era A total of 111 whalers were lost on their way back from whaling due to bad weather in Taiji in This disaster brought the Amitori-hou to a close. Then the whalers started seeking a new whaling technology. Through trial and error for 20 years, a new whaling technology, Norwegian whaling (e.g. modern whaling) was introduced from Norway in The Norwegian whaling (modern whaling) used a rapid catcher boat with a mounted gun discharging bomb-lances. It became possible to catch fin whales and blue whales with this new technology. Then the whaling entered a new era in Japan. 6

7 (in the early 1900s) [Expansion of the Norwegian Whaling] (in 1934) Japan started whaling in the Antarctic Ocean In the early 1900s, the Norwegian whaling (modern whaling) spread throughout Japan, and dozens of new whaling stations were constructed. Finally, the Japanese whaling vessels went into the Antarctic Ocean in

8 (in 1946) Resumption of Whaling in the Antarctic Whale meat saved the lives of the Japanese people after WW [the Anti-Whaling Protests in the West] (in 1988) A Moratorium on Commercial Whaling % In 1946, Japan resumed whaling in the Antarctic Ocean, and whale meat saved the lives of the Japanese people under the food shortage after World War. At that time, whale meat accounted for 47% of the total amount of the animal protein taken in the Japanese people. Then in the 1970s, the anti-whaling protests began in the West. At last, a moratorium on commercial whaling for some species was enforced in Japan in The era of commercial whaling was over. 8

9 2. Whaling in Contemporary Japan 3 3 Types of Whaling: Small-type Whaling Hand Harpoon Fishery, Drive Fishery ,000 Whales and Dolphins / a year Let us move on to the present situation of whaling in Japan. There are 85 species of cetaceans (whales and dolphins/porpoises) in the world. According to the International Convention for the Regulation of Whaling (ICRW), a moratorium on commercial whaling is applied to 13 of 85 species of cetaceans. As to the remaining 72 species, it is possible to catch them commercially. In Japan, a total of 15,000 whales and dolphins are caught under the control of the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fishery and the Governors concerned. Almost of all of them are eaten by the Japanese people. Three types of whaling methods are used. 1) Small-type whaling, 2) Hand harpoon fishery, and 3) Drive fishery. Take a quick look at these whaling methods. 9

10 4 First, I am going to talk about the Small-type whaling. This is a map of four whaling communities in Japan; Abashiri, Ayukawa, Wada and Taiji. Small-type whaling is carried out offshore adjacent to these communities. 10

11 Small-type Whaling 50 5 The Small-type whaling is conducted as follows. A small whaling boat (less than 50 tons) with a harpoon gun is used. It catches Baird s Beaked whales, pilot whales and Risso s dolphins. A total of 5 small-type whaling boats are in operation now. These whaling boats are based in four communities; Abashiri, Ayukawa, Wada and Taiji. Each community has its own tradition of whaling. The right side is a picture of the Baird s beaked whale landed in Wada. The left side is a picture of the small-type whaling boat based in Taiji. 11

12 Hand Harpoon Fishery The hand harpoon fishery is a method in which whales and dolphins/porpoises are caught with hand harpoons. A fisherman on the bow of a fishing boat throws harpoons into whales and dolphins/porpoises. The main targets of this fishery are Dall s porpoises. They are harpooned offshore area on the Pacific side of the Tohoku region. Striped dolphins, Risso s dolphins, common bottlenose dolphins, pantropical spotted dolphins, pilot whales and false killer whales are also caught by this fishery. This is a picture of the hand harpoon fishing boats anchored at Katsuura port. 12

13 Drive Fishery The drive fishery is a method in which whales and dolphins/porpoises are caught alive. A total of fishing boats drive the whales and dolphins/porpoises into a bay, after which nets are cast to close the entrance. Taiji is the only town where this fishery is carried out regularly. Pilot whales, Risso s dolphins, striped dolphins, common bottlenose dolphins, pantropical spotted dolphins and false killer whales are captured using these techniques. This is a picture of the Risso s dolphins driven into Hatajiri Bay, Taiji. 13

14 Catches for Scientific Purposes Minke Whale Bryde s Whale Sei Whale Fin Whale Sperm Whale 1,238 Whales / FY Let us move on to the catches for scientific purposes. The moratorium on commercial whaling is applied to 13 species of whales by the International Convention for the Regulation of Whaling (ICRW). But it is possible to catch these whales for scientific purposes. It is necessary to conduct this type of research to obtain accurate scientific data for whale resources management. The government of Japan catches 5 species of whales (e.g. minke whales, Bryde s whales, sei whales, fin whales and sperm whales) for scientific purposes. The whale products of this scientific research are sold and eaten when the research is over. A total of 1,238 whales were caught for scientific purposes in the fiscal year

15 By-product of Catches for Scientific Purposes 2005 : Catches by S.P. in the Antarctic in FY Minke Whales 3169 Whale Meat 3,169 tons 3.7 /1 (3.7 tons / a whale) Fin Whales 267 Whale Meat 267 tons 26.7 /1 (26.7 tons / a whale) Whale Meat as Food In the fiscal year 2005, a total of 853 minke whales and 10 fin whales were caught for scientific purposes in the Antarctic Ocean. As a by-product of this scientific research, 3,169 tons of Minke whale meat and 267 tons of Fin whale meat were produced. People living in the four whaling communities, Abashiri, Ayukawa, Wada and Taiji, were (are) able to buy these by-products at a lower price than the market price. We were (are) also able to buy these by-products at the market price. That s the reason why whale meat in our food culture has been passed generation to generation. 15

16 3. Whale Meat in Japanese Food Culture Diversity of Whale Meat Preferences and Cooking Methods Preference for Baleen Whales Preference for Sashimi Let us move on to the whale meat in Japanese food culture. We have a lot of whale meat dishes in Japan. From community to community, people like eating whale meat of different species. However, people generally like eating meat of baleen whales rather than that of toothed whales. Meat of the baleen whales is tender and less fishy. Sashimi is our most favorite whale meat dish. Fresh whale meat surely tastes better. 16

17 This shows the whale meat dish which people like eating most. The peoples of Abashiri and Ayukawa like eating sashimi of minke whale meat. On the other hand, the people of Wada like eating dried Baird s beaked whale meat, and those of Taiji like eating sashimi of pilot whale meat. 17

18 1969 Let us take a look at Taiji town as an example of a whaling town. This is a picture of Taiji Whale Museum. It was established in In this museum, we are able to learn the history of whaling in Taiji as well as the biology of cetaceans. 18

19 This map shows where Taiji town is. It is located on the southeastern side of the Kii peninsula. 19

20 Area: 5.96, Population: 3, In 1606, Whaling with Hand-harpoons 1675 In 1675, Whaling with Nets 400 History of Whaling for 400 years Taiji is a small town covering an area of 5.96 with a population of 3,796 (2004). Whaling with hand-harpoons started in Taiji in Then whaling with nets was invented in Therefore, there is a long history of whaling in the town. Whaling has become a living cultural heritage in Taiji. 20

21 400 At the peak of the pelagic whaling, 400 people from Taiji were involved in the whaling industry % In the early 1960s, the tax from the Antarctic whalers accounted for 60% of the town s revenues % At the peak of the pelagic whaling, 400 people from Taiji were involved in the whaling industry. In the early 1960s, the tax from the Antarctic whalers accounted for 60% of the town s revenues. 21

22 The Taiji whalemen catch cetaceans today. Small-type Whaling and Drive Fishery 1,666 cetaceans caught in The people of Taiji eat whale meat The Taiji whalemen catch whales and dolphins/porpoises, even now. The small type whaling and the drive fishery are carried out at the offshore area of Taiji. In 2004, a total of 1,666 whales and dolphins/porpoises were caught. The people of Taiji eat the meat of these cetaceans. 22

23 Short-finned Pilot Whale 4-5m This is a picture of the short-finned pilot whale. It is 4-5 meters long and weighs 2-3 tons. It is estimated that a total of 53,000 short-finned pilot whales inhabit the neighboring waters of Japan. 23

24 Sashimi of Pilot Whales 100g These pictures show the tail meat of the short-finned pilot whales being sold in Taiji. Sashimi of the tail meat tastes good! The people of Taiji like it. The prices for these meat at their highest are as follows; 1,500 yen (21,400 won) at the top right, 2,500 yen (35,700 won) at the bottom left, and 3,500 yen (50,000 won) at the bottom right. 24

25 Whale Dishes in Taiji This is an example of whale dishes using various parts of the whales. We are able to eat these dishes at a famous restaurant in Taiji. The price is 5,250 yen (75,000 won). Sashimi (tail meat, red meat, blubber, and une-meat), Hari-hari nabe (stewed boiled red meat and potherb), Sarashi-kujira (boiled and sliced tail skin), Shigureni (boiled rib meat with soy sauce and sugar), Beacon, and Udemono (boiled intestines). 25

26 Sashimi of Striped Dolphin This is a menu of a restaurant, which features the sashimi of striped dolphin. Its price is 1,050 yen (15,000 won). This restaurant is located in Nachi-Katsuura town, next to Taiji town. We eat dolphins/porpoises as well as whales. Of course, both are cetaceans. 26

27 Cooking of Whale Meat in Our College Let us move on to a cooking and tasting of whale meat dishes in our college. We sometimes provide students with whale meat dishes. By cooking and eating whale meat, they understand that whales are foodstuffs. At the end of the tasting, they say whale meat is delicious. Surely, eating is believing. Students are cooking Crispy-fried whale meat and sashimi. 27

28 Tasting of Whale Meat in Our College Students are eating sashimi and crispy fried whale meat that they have cooked. What a beautiful smile they make! 28

29 A Korean student is cooking whale meat A Korean student is also cooking whale meat with Japanese students. 29

30 Portion of New Students Having Experience of Eating Whale Meat year % Every year, at the first lecture of my class on whaling cultures, I ask new students, Have you ever eaten whale meat dishes? This table shows the results. The new students of the year 1995 had eaten the whale meat dish in elementary school lunches. Those of the year 2003 had not eaten the whale meat dish in elementary school lunches due to the rising price of whale meat. The new students of this year (2009) had eaten the whale meat dish in elementary school lunches. It is important for us to provide the whale meat dish in a school lunch program for the continuation of whale meat in Japanese food culture. 30

31 4. Conclusion History of Whale Meat as Food for 5000 years in Japan Various Whale Meat Dishes in Japanese Food Culture Whales are Renewable Food Resources which can be used Sustainably. 1) ) 3) Now, I would like to sum up the results of my presentation. 1) We Japanese have been eating whale meat for over 5000 years. 2) There are various whale meat dishes in Japanese food culture. These two facts illustrate, 3) Whales are renewable resources which can be used sustainably. From now on, I would like to study whaling cultures, eating delicious whale meat. 31

32 I would like to end my speech, with showing our appreciation to whales which provide us with delicious meat. Thank you very much for your kind attention. 32

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