日本感性工学会論文誌
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1 Vol.15 No.5 pp doi: /jjske.TJSKE-D Some Little Bewilderment of elegance in the LA MAISON DIOR of Raf Simons Design Process of Fashion Clothing in Couture Maison Akira SUZUKI*, Masayuki TAKATERA** and Tsuyoshi OTANI** * Sugino Fashion College, Kamiosaki, Shinagawa-Ku, Tokyo , Japan ** Shinshu University, Tokida, Ueda-shi, Nagano , Japan Abstract : Ever since the couture maison Christian Dior (CD) joined the Chambre Syndicale De La Haute Couture, it has been presenting its biannual runway shows for approximately 70 years. Aesthetic elegance the essence of haute couture is what couturiers in Christian Dior have to portray in their garments. However, Raf Simons, who took over Dior after John Galliano, was unable to do this. This paper proves this fact by using the criteria set by Suzuki from his working experience with Guy Laroche in 1980s. Using this criteria, examined are Galliano s 11 AW and Simons 14 AW as well as his 12 AW as appearing in the film Dior and I, which describes the designing and manufacturing process of the collection. The study confirms that while Galliano met the standard of haute couture, Simons did not in that he did not compromise with the brand in his minimalism even though he did in terms of color. Simons career cannot be termed as that of a true couturier. If his minimalism continues, haute couture, which necessitates gorgeousness, will disappear in CD. It was also revealed that the ateliers of couture maisons cannot do efficient work without well-trained couturiers. The paper confirms and concludes that couturiers affect the existence of couture maisons. Keywords : Haute couture, Élégant, Couturie, Design Raf SimonsRaf Jil Sander La Maison DiorCDCD CD CD CD LVMH LVMH 46.64% 62.90%Bernard Arnault Dior & I 8 Raf 2 Raf Raf CD élégance élégance élégance 1.2 M&A 553 LVMH LVMH40% EURBrandGoodwill 236 EUR41%45%4 impairment test Received: / Accepted: J-STAGE Advance Published Date: Copyright 2016 All Rights Reserved. 589
2 Vol.15 No.5 5 FCF CF FCF LVMH 40% CD LVMH 6 Raf Studio atelier 1 2. Raf Guy Laroche 5studio atelier 1 Guy Laroche 2.2 élégance Mireille Darc Georges PompidouJacques René Chirac RafCD CD Gianfranco Ferré CD élégance7 CD 1980 élégance Raf CD élégance CD 590
3 Vol.15 No.5 3. élégance 3.1 C.F.Worth couturiermaison élégance mannequin élégance 2 9 1, C.F.Worthélégance élégance 18 Worth2 3Botticelli Medici ToscanaSandro BotticelliLeonardo da VinciMichelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti élégance Botticelli Allegoria 3 Botticelli Anne de Bretagne 14 cotehardie Botticelli 4. élégance 2élégance 4.1signifiant élégance Botticelli 591
4 Vol.15 No.5 signifiant signifier élégance élégance élégance 4élégance Jacques Fath Christian Dior Guy Laroche CDChristian Dior CD 4Fath CD Marcel Boussac CD new look 1957 Yves Saint-Laurent Marc Bohan CD 1978 Boussac 1984Bernard ArnaultBoussac CD 1989 Gianfranco Ferré 1996 John Galliano Givenchy CD 2011 John 2012 Raf 2015 CDChristian Dior CD CD Going concern 592
5 Vol.15 No Christian Dior Yves Saint Laurent Marc Bohan Gianfranco Ferré John Galliano Bill Gaytten Raf Bill Gaytten styliste 1980 Christian Dior 55 CD Raf John Raf Raf Raf CEO CD 5.3Raf Dior & I CD Raf5 Raf Raf Raf 6 CEO CD 1Dior & I Mr. CEO Mr. Mme. Mr. Mr. Mme. Mme. Mme. 7 Mr. 593
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7 Vol.15 No.5 10 Raf 11 Raf Raf Raf Raf2-3 atelier plan studio 12 Raf Christian Dior plan 8 Guy Laroche Raf 3 14 Sterling Ruby Ruby Raf 8Raf 15 Raf 5048 Raf CEO Raf mmsisplaton Aristotels Pierre Cardin Raf Pablo Picasso Raf 7. John Galliano Raf Simons 7.1 John Raf VogueA4JG AW32RS1212AW54RS1515AW57 A0 13 élégance Raf John 595
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11 Vol.15 No.5 RS RS12RS15 Raf JG11RS12JG11RS15 5% JG11 RS12RS12 RS15 5% Raf15Raf12John %210.6% 95.4%1 John John 2Raf Raf9 JohnRaf consistenttautology 11 JG RS RS JG RS JG RS RS JG RS RS John2 1Raf12Raf15 9. Dior & IRaf Simons John Rafélégance Raf Raf tail risk Dior & IRaf 8Raf Cash-flow Raf LVMHCD EUR236 EURimpairment asset CD CD Raf Raf Raf John Raf Raf Raf Gay 599
12 Vol.15 No.5 John Raf JohnRaf 1980 Raf12 Koninklijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten van Antwerpen Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne Raf 78RafMaria Grazia Chiuri 17SS2007ValentinoPier Paolo Piccioli Maria reciprocal recognition CD Atelier JSPS S A Breakdown Of Share Capital And Voting Rights 1Shareholdersp.47 2 Dior & I Ruf 3 A Few Words About Our History1Maisonspp p.2p Impairment Testing of Intangible Assets with Indefinite Useful Lives2pp Arnault3 7 CDChristian Dior 8 3John Galliano 9 10 pp.53-54pp Jacques_Fath Guy LarocheMaison CD John Raf Raf CD Annual Report Group 2015, LVMH., Consolidated Financial Statements, Bernard Arnault and Yves Messarovitch: La passion creative, Plon, 2000 LVMH BP Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda: Haute Couture The metropolitan Museum of Art, Stefania Saviolo=Salvo Testa (Università Bocconi): Strategic Management in the Fashion Companies, ETAS, pp
13 Vol.15 No.5 7 KIM KyoungOk 135pp main&upload_id= A https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/ja/grant/ KAKENHI-PROJECT / / seika.pdf 9 P 2 élégance pp pp.53-54pp p Ecol de la Chambre Syndicale la Couture Parisienne Superieur Guy Laroche Paris atelier cabinet
日本感性工学会論文誌
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日本感性工学会論文誌
pp.389-402 2017 doi: 10.5057/jjske.TJSKE-D-17-00019 SKEL Fundamental Analysis on Designer s Inference Process Framework and Its Visualization Proposal of Inference Mapping Method to Assist Meta-cognition
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