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1 広東文化としての中国薬草茶 The Herbal Tea in Cantonese Culture 芹澤知広 * Satohiro SERIZAWA 要旨 キーワード Ⅰ はじめに *
2 Hoa Nung
3 芹澤 広東文化としての中国薬草茶 察を進めることにしたい なお 筆者は本稿では 広府 という用語は用いず 広東 を用い ている その理由は 日本語で 広東 カントン という言葉は 戦前以来 広東省全体を指 すのではなく 英語の Canton と同様 主として現在の広州市を指して使われてきたことによる 広州方言 や 広府話 を指して 日本で長らく 広東語 という用語が使われてきたのも同 様の理由からである Ⅱ 広東都市文化としての中国薬草茶 前章で述べたように 涼茶 とは現在広州や香港の広東人が常用する中国薬草茶であるが 古くからこの地方の民間に伝承されてきたものではない 涼茶によく使われている材料は 乾燥 した中国医学の薬材である その生産 流通は 専門的に行われており 通常は その処方も専 門医が行っている 現在の香港では 家庭でバーベキューをした時に 合わせて 乾燥した菊の花を煮だし 白砂 糖を入れて甘くした薬草茶を作って飲むことがある バーベキューや焼肉は 体を熱くする 熱 気 そのため その熱を下げるために 清熱 菊花茶 を飲む この場合 いわば家庭で 自家製の 涼茶 が作られているのであるが 材料の菊の花を自分で作ることはない 香港の書店には 家庭で涼茶を煮だすためのレシピを載せた本が売られている 菊花茶 な ら材料は菊の花だけで 甘みを調整するために砂糖を加えるだけであるが レシピ本に載せられ た多くの涼茶には もっと専門的な薬材が多く必要とされる これらの材料は 専門的な薬局や 乾物屋で買う必要がある 例えば 涼茶天書 という涼茶のレシピ本に最初に出てくる涼茶 王老吉 には 次の10種 の薬材が必要とされている 崗梅根 山芝麻 金櫻根 海金沙藤 金銭草 火炭母 五指柑 布渣葉 淡竹葉 木蝴蝶 8 そして これらを適当に入れて煮だしたらよいの ではなく 水の分量に合わせ それぞれの薬材の分量も決まっている これらのレシピの多くは その 時々に特定の中国医学の医者が編 み出したものと考えられるが そ れが商品化されて市場に出回るこ とで その普及を見た 共産主義 革命以前の広州や 現在の香港 さらには海外の華人社会で見られ る もっとも普及した涼茶の飲み 方は 路上のドリンクスタンドで 陶器のお椀に入れられた一杯分 を その場で買って飲むという方 法である 写真 1 参照 現在の 香港や広東省の都市では 薬局で 写真 1 ベトナム ホーチミン市の路上にある涼茶の ドリンクスタンド 2014 年 7 月筆者撮影 57
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6 Ⅲ 広東の 涼茶 とは別種の中国薬草茶 the New Territories
7 New Kowloon
8 Ⅳ ベトナムのキン族の薬草茶
9 la xong Ⅴ おわりに
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13 ChengSea Ling Back to the Future: Herbal Tea Shops in Hong Kong, Grant Evans and Maria Tam eds. Hong Kong: The Anthropology of a Chinese Metropolis. Richmond, Surrey: Curzon Press, -. Summary The Herbal Tea in Cantonese Culture Satohiro Serizawa It is well known that the Chinese people in the Guangdong province like drinking Chinese herbal tea, or cooling tea, Liang Cha in Chinese; Leuhng Chah in Cantonesefor the maintenance of their health. The brands and recipes of Cantonese herbal tea that have been used by herbal tea production companies in Guangdong province are now recognized as national intangible cultural heritage in the Peoples Republic of China. However, that herbal tea is not rooted deeply in the folk culture of the Guangdong province through history. Rather, it was created as a commodity in the commercial world of Guangzhou city in the nineteenth century. Although today many people living in Hong Kong can make a simple herbal tea such as chrysanthemum tea at home, many people in Guangzhou, Hong Kong, and other Cantonese Chinatowns cities positioned inside and outside of China regularly enjoy bowls of herbal tea at tea shops on the streets. Consuming herbal tea is a part of Cantonese urban life. However this urbanized type of Chinese herbal tea is clearly different from the other type of herb tea found in the suburban areas. The Hakka Chinese in Hong Kong and the Vietnamese the Kinhin Hanoi use fresh herbs instead of dried herbs. They boil the materials and make a soup. The patient then bathes in a steam from the soup, not in the soup itself. It is assumed that the differences in the methods of herb consumption can be linked to the ethnic differences among the peoples on the border between China and Vietnam. key words: Chinese, Cantonese, herbal tea
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