The Image Analysis of Yukatas of Traditional or Untraditional Forms in Comparison Between First and Second Impressions. Ume KAWAKAMI Tokyo Kasei-Gakui

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The Image Analysis of Yukatas of Traditional or Untraditional Forms in Comparison Between First and Second Impressions. Ume KAWAKAMI Tokyo Kasei-Gakuin University, Tokyo Abstract Impressions,received by subjects,of traditional and untraditional yukatas (traditional Japanese in-formal summer costume) have been investigated and images have been compared between first and second sights. Subjects consist of women classified into three age-groups. The stimuli consist of 12 types of yukatas. Subjects expressed their images of each stimulus in five stages for 18 adjective pairs, and the same survey was repeated after an interval of one month. Results of a factor analysis of each group showed that the contribution ratio of the primary factors indicating a traditional or untradi-tional image were 54-65%, and those of the secondary factor indicating a light or heavy image were 21-30%. Older subjects tended to respect traditional yukatas. For many stimuli, every group tended to respect gold-fashioned h, g dislikeable h, and gmanly hfactors at the second sight rather than at the fir-st sight. In addition, the information transmission was calculated. The older the subjects, the more the information transmission. Then, older subjects might discriminate the differences among the images. At the second sight, the information transmission decreased in all the groups for most of 18 adjective pairs. (Received September 12, 2003) Key Word: clothing, clothing image, design, factor analysis, information transmission, semantic differential method, tradition, yukata. (Journal of the Japan Research Association for Textile End-Uses, Vol. 44, pp. 673-681, 2003) Vol.44No.11(2003) 0037-2072/2003/1100-0673 $ 01.00/0 2003 Jpn.Res.Assn.Text.End-Uses. (673)

51 Regularform L1/S1/B1 L1/S2/B1 L1/S3/B1 L2/S1/B1 L2/S2/B1 L2/S3/B1 Fig.1 Stimuli: 12 types L1: ankle of yukatas length, having L2/S1/B2 different total lengths, L1/S2/B2 L1/S3/B2 L2/S2/B2 L2/S3/B2 sleeve lengths, and belts. L2: knee length S1: sleeve 38cm in length, B1: back tied hard L1/S1/B2 obi, S2: sleeve 50cm in length, B2: front S3: sleeve 76cm in length tied soft sash これ に 対 し,選 ば れ る 回 数 が ラ ン ダ ムな 場 合 に 情 報 伝 達 量 は 形 容 詞 対 毎 に 算 出 す る.あ 激 に 対 し て,5つ る刺 の 中 の 各 カ テ ゴ リー が選 ば れ る 確 率 をp1,p2,,p5と す れ ば,各 メ ッセ ー ジ に 対 す る 理 論 的 比率 は 表2 の 右 欄 に 示 す 算 出 方 法 に よ りB列 に 示 す よ う に 対 応 す る 情 報 量 は-log2p1,-log2p2,-log2p5 求 ま る.情 で あ る.こ 最 大 の 不確 定 性 で あ る 情 報 量Bと の 情 報 源xの 平 均情 報 量 は次 の よ う 報 伝 達量Itは 性 で あ る情 報量Aと に 表 さ れ る. 理 論 的 に 計 算 され た 実際の不確 定 の 差 と して 次 の よ う に算 出 され る. 情報量 H(x)= 評 価 カ テ ゴ リ ーj,刺 激kが 選 ば れ る回 数 の 総 呈 示 回 数 に 対 す る 割 合pj,kを,表2のA列 の よ 情 報 量B= 情 報 量A= う に 求 め る と, =1 Vo1.44No.11(2003) 情 報伝達量It=情 報 量B-情 報 量A (675)

52 Table 1 First, second and third factors and factor-loadings for each group. (Factor-loadings above 0.60 are shown here.) (676)

53 Table 2 Observed and theoretical probabilities for calculating information transmission.

Fig.2 Image changes of yukatas in traditional or untraditional form by comparing first and second impressions. Factor scores of each L1 L2, S1 S2 S3 or B1 B2 are significantly different(p<0.05). L1: ankle length, L2: knee length Sl: sleeve 38cm in length, S2: sleeve 50cm in length, S3: sleeve 76cm in length B1: back tied hard obi, B2: front tied soft sash (678)

Fig.3 Information transmissions for 18 adjective pairs in first and second surveys. ( * : increased, * : decreased)