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5 EM -1- (2.1) Dally x κ ( F cos θ ) + ( F sin θ ) = ( F F s ) 2.1 y d 2-7 F F Stable wave energy flux d F (2.2) F s = E s gs = 1 8 ρgh 2 s gh = 1 8 ρg(γ h) 2 gh 2.2 η (2.3) ds xx = ρgd d η dx dx 2.3

6 η Dally (2.1) = (I) Prebreaking zone), (II) (Breaker transition zone), (III) (Broken wave zone), (IV) (swash zone) 3 Surf similarity parameter (2.4) Z r H 0 = 1.47 [ tan β ] H 0 L Z tan H L Table of valiables DS ---- BEAH PROFILE DA ---- TOTAL DEPTH WITH SET-DOWN AND SET-UP AVDS ---- AVERAGE BEAH TOPOGRAPHY FOR WAVE DEAY MODEL (3-POINTS) ETABAR -- MEAN WATER LEVEL H ---- WAVE HEIGHT SLP ---- LOAL SLOPE TANB --- AVERAGE BEAH SLOPE wkappa --- SHOALING OEFFIIENT c r ---- BREAKER RATIO ROU ---- DENSITY OF WATER (100 kg/m^3) EFLUX --- ENERGY FLUX DHSQ --- DH^2/DX^2 HB --- BREAKING WAVE HEIGHT DIMMENSION DEFINITION DIMENSION DS(200), DA(200), AVDS(200), H(200), ETABAR(200) DIMENSION SLP(200), FL(200), HB(200), HBF(200), HAV(200) REAL LAG, K(200), DH(200) HARATER*18 DNAME$ WRITE (*,'(A)') ' ONSTANT ' ALL ONST(T,H0,F,ROU,G,DX,DT,WKAPPA,GAMMA,DLAG,LAG,SBF,WL) OMPUTATION ITERATION

7 MM = 0 NX = 200 NN = 0 IBPNUM = 0 ====================================================== REAL LAG ONSTANT WAVE PERIOD (SE) T = 6.0 WAVE HEIGHT (m) H0 = 2.3 FRITION OEFFIIENT F F = 0.03 DENSITY OF WATER (kg/m^3) ROU = GRAVITY AELALATION G(m/sec^2) G = 9.8 GRID SIZE IN X-DIRETION (ONSHORE IS POSITIVE) (m) DX = 1.0 OEFFIIENT OF WAVE DEAY MODEL WKAPPA = 0.15 GAMMA = 0.40 OTHER OEFFIIENT DLAG = 1.5 LAG = 0.0 SBF = 0.1 WL = 1.56* (T**2.) INITIAL BEAH PROFILE 200 WRITE (*,'(A)') ' INITIAL BEAH PROFILE ' AVERAGE BEAH SLOPE TANB TANB =10.0 / 100. XM = 10.0 / 100. DD = XM * DX DO 210 I=1, 200 DS(I) = (FLOAT(I-1)*DD) 210 ONTINUE WAVE DEAY MODEL IBP(1) = 0 IBP(2) = ONVERT TO ENGLISH SYSTEM --- DX = DX / H0 = H0 / WL = WL / DD = DD / G = G / DO 302 I=1,200 DS(I) = DS(I) / ONTINUE AVERAGE DEPTH FOR WAVE DEAY MODEL AVDS(1) = (DS(1)+DS(2)) / 2. AVDS(200) = (DS(199)+DS(200))/2.0 DO 303 I=2,199 AVDS(I) = (DS(I+1)+DS(I))/ ONTINUE DO 305 I=2,NX-1 SLP(I) = (AVDS(I-1)-AVDS(I+1))/(2.*DX) 305 ONTINUE SLP(1) = SLP(2) SLP(NX) = SLP(NX-1) DO 307 I=1,200 K(I) = ONTINUE

8 WAVE HEIGHT AND SET-DOWN AT OFFSHORE BOUNDARY GRID H(1) = H0*SQRT(SQRT(G/AVDS(1))*T/(4.*3.1415)) ETABAR(1) = -(((H(1)*0.5)**2.)/(4.*AVDS(1))) DA(1) = AVDS(1) + ETABAR(1) IB = 0 IBPNUM = 0 J = 0 IBP(1)=0 IBP(2) = 0 NX = 0 DIF = BREAKING WAVE DEAY MODEL WRITE (*,'(A)') ' BREAKING WAVE MODEL ' BREAK = 0.5 I = I = I +1 IF (BREAK.LE.1.0) GO TO 311 WAVE BREAKING AP = EXP(-K(I)*DX/DA(I)) BP = 0.16*(DA(I)**2.) HEK = (H(I)**2.) - BP IF (HEK.LT.0.0) GO TO 311 HB(I) = SQRT((AP*HEK)+BP) GO TO 312 NON-BREAKING 311 HB(I)=H(I) BREAK = ONTINUE HAV(I) = (H(I)+HB(I))/2. HBF1 = (HB(I)**2.)-(2.*0.03*(HAV(I)**3.)*DX/((DA(I)**2.) 1 *9.425)) IF (HBF1.LE.0.0) GO TO 320 HBF(I) = SQRT((HB(I)**2.)-(2.*0.03*(HAV(I)**3.)*DX/((DA(I)**2. 1 )*9.425))) K = DA(I)/(AVDS(I+1)+ETABAR(I)) IF (K.GE.0.0) GO TO 314 GO TO ONTINUE H(I+1) = HBF(I)*((DA(I)/(AVDS(I+1)+ETABAR(I)))**0.25) ETABAR(I+1)=(((H(I)**2.)-(H(I+1)**2.))/(4.57*DA(I)))+ETABAR(I) DA(I+1)=AVDS(I+1)+ETABAR(I+1) IF (DA(I+1).LT.0.1) GO TO 320 IF (BREAK.LE.1.0) GO TO 316 GO TO IF (H(I+1).LT.(1.3*DA(I+1))) GO TO 310 BREAK = 5.0 IF (IB.NE.0) GO TO 318 IB = I +1 J=J+1 IBP(J) = IB 318 GO TO ONTINUE NX = I IBPNUM = J WAVE HEIGHT AL. END ONVERT TO METRI SYSTEM DX = DX * H0 = H0 * WL = WL * DD = DD * G = G * DO 325 I=NX+1, 200 H(I) = 0.0

9 ETABAR(I) = 0.0 DA(I) = ONTINUE DO 330 I=1,200 DS(I) = DS(I) * H(I) = H(I) * ETABAR(I) = ETABAR(I) * DA(I) = DA(I) * ONTINUE WRITE (*,*) (H(I), I=1,200) DATA DISPLAY WRITE (*,'(A)') ' BREAK POINT ' WRITE (*,*) IBP(1), IBP(2) WRITE (*,'(A)') ' ' WRITE (*,'(A)') ' WAVE HEIGHT ' WRITE (*,*) (H(I),I=1,200) WRITE (*,'(A)') ' BEAH PROFILE ' WRITE (*,*) (DS(I), I=1,200) DATA SAVE DATA FILE NAME --- DATA1$ = ' nishi WH' // '.DAT' DATA2$ = ' nishi DS' // '.DAT' DATA3$ = ' DATA ET' // ITE$ '.DAT' ---- DATA SAVE ---- OPEN (7,FILE = DATA1$) DO 782 I=40,150 IJ = 151- I WRITE (7,*) IJ, H(I) 782 ONTINUE LOSE (7, STATUS='KEEP') OPEN (8,FILE = DATA2$) DO 784 I=40, 150 IJ = 151- I WRITE (8,*) IJ, -DS(I) 784 ONTINUE LOSE (8, STATUS='KEEP') OPEN (9, FILE = DATA3$) DO 786 I=40,150 IJ = 151 -I WRITE (9,*) IJ, ETA(I) 786 ONTINUE LOSE (9, STATUS = 'KEEP') END

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