Faculty of Life Environment, Kinjogakuin University, Moriyama-ku, Nagoya 463-8521, Japan Faculty of Home Economics, Japan Women s University, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 112-8681, Japan AStudy on Easing by a Variable Top Feed and Differential Drop Feed Sewing Machine Applications of Computerized Sewing to Easing in Sleeve Cap Seam Kikuko Aoyama and Kozo Shimazaki Abstract : In the previous paper [1], we discussed an experimental method for estimating seam shrinkage along the optional direction of fabric using a variable top feed and differential drop feed sewing machine. In this study, we considered to apply computerized sewing to easing in sleeve cap seam using the results in the previous paper. The results obtained were as follows : At first we obtained seam shrinkage ratio of sewn fabrics under predetermined differential ratio conditions experimentally at 4 kinds of sewing angles, i.e. 45, 90, 135 and 180(0) degrees, where we defined 0 deg. as weft, 90 deg. as warp direction, respectively. On the basis of the results mentioned above, we showed a method to obtain the differential ratio by means of interpolation that desired seam shrinkage ratio could be completed in optional sewing direction. As for sleeve pattern selected, we divided the seam line in sleeve cap to several parts and shared total amount of easing with every divided part. The differential ratios to obtain the desired amount of easing were calculated in every sewing stitch in the divided parts. The data were input to the controller and computerized easing sewing was performed using various specimen fabrics. It was shown that the designed easing sewing was done contentedly although the appearances of sleeve samples differed from each other by the fabrics used. We confirmed that the method shown here for computerized sewing was very useful to easing in sleeve cap seam for fabrics with various properties. (Received 10 October, 2007 ; Accepted 7 July, 2008) 1 0 90 4 45, 90, 135, 180 0 Vol.58, 216 2002 1 2 1
1 18 401 2 JUKI, ASG-166 1 JUKI, ASE-167 A.H.L A.H.L 1 5 A.H.L 1 10 10 45 3 31 KES-FB 0 90 45 90 135 180 0 4 50cm 5cm 1 3 1 1 1 4 4 0 180 S = 0.5 Sp Sq sin4 22.5 +1 +Sq 1 1 2 180 S180 S S90 S180 S45 S135 Sp Sq Fig. 1 a 11 b 25 1/2 c 9 1/2 4 1 0.05 1.0 1 / 9.8N/58.8N 1kgf/6kgf / 37.2cN/ 9.8cN 38gf/10gf 1000spm LA 1.90mm LB 2.32 3.65mm LB/LA 1.22 1.42 1.62 1.82 4 0.2 #60 #9 0% Fig. 1 c 9 135 1.62 1.82 0.2 Fig. 1 a b c 3 90 180 45 135 45 135 Fig. 1 a b c 45 135 0 180 90 0 180 90 Fig. 1 a b 11 25 90
31 Fig. 1 c 9 45 135 1.62 1.82 45 135 4 0 180 Fig. 1 b c 25 9 100% 1/2 7 10 14 28 EM B TM 0 90 45 135 1.82 0 90 1.82 Fig. 1 Relation between Seam Shrinkage and Angle between Weft and Sewing Direction. (a) Sample 11 (b) Sample 25 (c) Sample 9 3 A B C A.H.L A 2 4 B 4 C A.H.L /A.H.L A:48mm/480mm B:42mm/ 414mm C:30mm/443mm 4 8 a h Fig. 2 B e Table 1 3 A.H.L.
Table 1 Amount of easing (L1 L2) shared with the divided parts of sleeve cap Fig. 2 Divided sleeve cap line (Pattern B). 7 3 A.H.L. L2 : A.H.L. L1-L2 5 10 3 16 3.3 JUKI ASE-167 1 a h 5 16 A 0 65 B 0 68 C 0 62.5 A 124 180 B C 120 180 90 c d f g Fig. 3 c d A 62.5 42.5 B 67.0 47.0 C 60.0 45.0 f g A 147.5 120.0 B C 145 125 3 45 135 1 A / : 17.91%/22.1% B 20.0%/21.1% C 12.5%/15.3% LB/LA : 0.05 3 A B C 2 8 15 3.1 3 e Table 2 A C A 2 a b Fig. 3 a b Fig. 3 a A 15 b C 2 A
Table 2 Comparison between designed and sewn sleeve cap lengths. Fig. 3 Photographs of the appearance of sleeve cap part sewn ((a) Pattern A, (b) Pattern C). B 15 Fig3 a 8 2 C 2 Fig3 b B /A.H.L. : 42mm/414mm 3.2 31 4.3 Fig. 4 Photographs of the appearance of sleeve cap part sewn (Pattern B). Table 2 B G B 11 19 10 17 18 14 4.2 Fig. 4 a d B Fig. 4 a 26 b 8 c 27 d 18 SMD 31 Fig. 4 a b c d 7 8 10 13 15 23 24 26 28 29 9 25 1 2 3
4 5 6 9 11 12 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 25 27 30 31 26 19 4.3 1 1. K. Aoyama, K. Shimazaki : Sen i Gakkaishi, 58, 216 (2002). 2. JIS L 0120 Stitch Types-Classification and Terminology, Japanese Industrial Standards Committee (2006). 3. The instruction book (ASG -166,ASE -167), JUKI CORPORATION (1996). 4. K. Ono : PATTERN MAKING, Bunka Publishing Bureau, p144, p170 (2000).